I make (and have sold) my own audio power cables. I usually buy materials thru Newark Electronics, MCM, Parts Express (which I used a lot). I get the Watt IEC connectors or hospital grade/similar and order the 10/12 gauge AC wire and snakeskin to make it pretty. Also Shrink tubing is a very good idea. Just solder, or use the screw in connectors to the plugs AFTER threading the snakeskin/shrink tubing (I do one side then thread the tubing/skin after). I test the plugs for shorts, then plug it in and test the AC power connection before bringing it near the equipment. Using a DVM of course. I think I was paying about $40 in parts, the plugs can be as expensive as you'd like. I have no idea why electricity running thru miles of crappy cabling and romex can be altered by a few feet of high grade AC wire/plus but it can be dramatic. I mainly used them for preamps and esp. power amps. I was a dealer for Mondial (RIP, thanks Klipsh), YBA, NAD, Myryad and a few others. I also have an Associates in Applie Electronics. Not saying this to be pretentious, just I have somewhat of a clue what's going on. Hope this helps.
Can upgraded power cords help my setup?
I have some KEF LS50 Wireless speakers and decided to use them with a Bluesound Node 2 via a Lifatec optical cable. Can I see a significant and worthy improvement if I swap out my power cords for something like Pangea cords? Do I need the AC 9SE MKII on the speakers or will the AC 14SE MKII be good for each speaker and also the Node 2 (C7?)? Power cords seem to be the only place left for me to tweak the most out of my setup.
Thanks for any input.
Thanks for any input.
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- 97 posts total
- 97 posts total