Dedicated Line Noise Filter?

Lowrider, my understanding is that a sub-panel should have hot, neutral, and safety ground all wired back to the main service panel

Al, that's what I thought. I asked the electrician about code, and he said it meets code and this is how he wired his house for a high-end HT system. He said not having a ground wire back to my circuit box containing old, poor quality wiring would cut down on noise.
I thought, finally I found an electrician who appreciates good audio.
One issue about my main circuit box is that it is a mix of new, updated wiring and old wire and breakers from the previous owners.
Maybe @jea48 can weigh in regarding adding a subpanel.

I'll try using only one line, that's a good idea.
This is an upgrade for me and I wanted to get it right. I used Romex 12/2 with Hubbell 20A brass duplex receptacles grounded (not self-grounded). Romex was run from subpanel taking separate routes to the receptacles, same length.

Get your Self a Industrial Power Conditioner IMHO, Nothing will beat a Elgar 3006.. Atma-Sphere Sells these Pre-conditioned and tested. The ones on Ebay are crap. You should speak to Ralph about this he can advise you on the matter.

I asked the electrician about code, and he said it meets code and this is how he wired his house for a high-end HT system. He said not having a ground wire back to my circuit box containing old, poor quality wiring would cut down on noise.

We'll see what Jim (Jea48) says, as the expert on these matters, but that doesn't sound right to me.  I assume neutral and safety ground are not connected together at the sub-panel, which would be a definite code violation and would create numerous potential safety hazards, and possibly noise problems as well.  Given that assumption, the main purpose of a safety ground is defeated by the approach you've described.  Especially if there is a significant distance between the ground rods of the two panels, and/or the soil in between them is dry.

If a short to chassis were to develop in anything that is plugged into those dedicated lines, that is not "double-insulated" and therefore utilizes safety ground, the path for the resulting fault current would include the soil between the ground rods of the two panels.  The corresponding resistance will likely be high enough to limit the current to too low a value to trip the breaker in either panel, resulting in a shock hazard.

Best regards,
-- Al
  

almarg

Lowrider, my understanding is that a sub-panel should have hot, neutral, and safety ground all wired back to the main service panel

lowrider57

Al, that's what I thought. I asked the electrician about code, and he said it meets code and this is how he wired his house for a high-end HT system. He said not having a ground wire back to my circuit box containing old, poor quality wiring would cut down on noise.

I'm certain this does not meet NEC and I'm with Al that this creates a safety hazard. @lowrider57 did you get construction permits for this project? Was the work inspected by your town's electrical inspector?

Are we getting a little ahead of ourselves in recommending iso and regen type power conditioners assuming the noise at 2 feet in front of the speakers is being caused by coupled or conducted EM/RF

What if the electrician failed to bond the second ground rod off the new sub panel to the main ground rod at the house's main service entrance ... cable guys do this all the time = ground loop

What if electrician didn't place both dedicated lines on the same phase in the main panel box as he was only trying to be diligent and balance the load evenly in the panel box = ground loop

What if electrician's apprentice after consuming large amounts of Gin and Corn Chips for lunch failed to tighten or fully insert the neutral wires into the audiophile grade outlets Lowrider57 spent so much money on or if he was careless in pushing those expensive outlets back in the wall and loosened up the neutral wire = lack of continuity = major buzzing

What if Lowrider57 switches interconnects and components frequently and has broken a return lead in one of the ICs or has loosened up one of the male chassis RCAs losing ground = Buzzing

What if Lowrider57 has lost a power supply cap or has a cracked solder joint in one of his component's = buzzing

Will a power conditioner of any type remedy any of this ?

I just lost a 4 year old premium Nichicon power supply cap in my amp and I'm still in denial = buzzing and crying :-(

Shouldn't the first step to problem solution be problem identification

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