Correct way to attach speaker wires... Wait, what!!!


Okay this is going to sound ridiculous but I've always wondered if I'm connecting the wires in the proper way to the binding posts. I just picked up a Red Dragon S500 power amp and I figured I finally should ask the question. It has the screw down type of posts. Here is a link to the pic on their website. The wires I have are Mapleshade Clearview Golden Helix which terminate in a stiff single 3/4" wire. Any help for a dumb question would be greatly appreciated!
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grannyring,
Yes it does. I was using solid core music meter wire prior to this & the duelund made a very noticeable difference. Highly recommended. 
"Colloidal copper preparation compounds". They work for silver and other metals as well. "Kopr-shield" is one. It's an anti corrosion treatment for connections that will not only keep copper from oxidizing it will enhance the resistance properties, "lower resistance" of the termination.    
     There is another product whose name currently escapes me. It's a high silver "powder" content, anti-oxidation treatment. I believe "Parts Express" carries it.    Why audiophiles don't use this more often escapes me.  That this works is a quantifiable fact. Easily measured with a meter as resistance but that measurement will not give you any given frequencies loss or corruption, "one type of distortion". Which is a factor when talking about line transmission. Most know something about frequency induction along the signal path but not so much about signal degradation and corruption. If a given frequency degrades enough, most will think it wasn't there to begin with. And if corrupted until it's simply distortion we think it's something to get rid of when in fact the opposite is true. It needs to be saved. Therefore the goal should be insulative in nature to protect the sanctity of the source signal. That would also help with induction of "other than true source" energy.    "Ramble, ramble, ramble...."   So those are my 2 cents! And if you don't at least try this you should be relegated to using only lamp cord for speaker and signal wire for eternity! Or at least until you can come up with the $27 bucks for the 16oz. container of said compound. Which ever comes first.








most of food vinegar isn't concentrated enough to work on corrosion and the price is different as well.
the only subject i am good at is math. all other ones had inferior grades or little to no interest including chemistry. 

I agree with some of the above posters - bare wire is the best connection - use deoxit or an equivalent cleaner a couple times a year to avoid oxidation- and clean the input connections as well as the wire -  the connector is a means to an end - its only intention is to connect the speaker wire to the speaker post - I avoid them whenever possible and just ensure I have clean wires and binding posts - a connector cannot improve on a bare wire - it can only minimize oxidation and possibly give you a little more surface area to work with