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DC leakage from power amps

I am hoping to get some advice on how to check for dc leakage from my power amps. I have a pair of Bryston 28B SST2 mono blocks, powering a pair of Wilson Maxx2's. The Wilsons drivers are protected by resistors, acting as fuses. I have been blowing quite a few of the mid driver resistors, valued at 5.8 ohms. Last night I lost another mid resistor cluster on my left channel ( there are 4 wired in a series/parallel configuration), and what I thought was a tweeter resistor, but upon replacing that single resistor (4.2 ohm) with a fresh one, still no tweeter. I was fed up, and did not investigate further, but fear that I may have a dead tweeter, or worse, crossover issues. I am no tech expert, but am concerned that I may have DC leakage from my Brystons. I live about a 4 hour round trip to the Bryston facilty in Peterborough Ontario, and have lots of warranty left, but don't want to pack up the beasts and have them inspected if I can confirm on my own, if there is a DC issue. How do I go about checking the amps at home, and confidently knowing if there are amp issues, or not. If the amps are faulty, I will return them for repairs, but would like to eliminate/confirm the issue at home. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

128x128crazyeddy
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crazyeddy's avatar
crazyeddy OP
381 posts
 
This happens on both sides, but it has been more on the left channel lately
yogiboy's avatar
yogiboy
5,737 posts
 
What preamp are you using? The DC leak might be the preamp! My tube preamp had a DC leak!
jea48
4,486 posts
 
I found this link doing a search.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/amplifier-distortion-dc-offset-and-you.5634/
As a semi-poll, I’d like to see those on this board whip out their multimeters and take a look at the DC that is being presented to the speakers. This means..

1. Speakers disconnected (or connect the meter to the ’B’ speakers and set the front panel speaker control accordingly)
2. Input set to an unusued position (not Phono)
3. Volume control at minimum.
4. Balance in center
5. Tone controls either defeated or set to mid position
6. Set your meter to read DC, and set to a low scale (300mV scale is common) Connect directly to the Pos and Neg of the speaker terminals
7. Give the amp 10 minutes to settle. Report back...I’d like to see how healthy all these old amps are.

If you read:

0 - 15mV: Damn good!! If you read ’0V’, you may have a capacitor output, or your meter is set wrong

16mV - 50mV: An acceptable value, especially at the lower end of this range. 2nd harmonic distortion is probably twice to four times what manufacturer’s spec calls for at higher frequencies. Probably not audible, as the distortion is mostly in the upper octaves. At the upper end of this range I begin to raise an eyebrow. :saywhat:

50 - 85mV: Something is certainly amiss, and while this is not enough to put your speakers or equipment in jeopardy, the amp is running nowhere near where it should. I’d venture to guess that most of the DC-coupled amps that are in use by forum members here fall into this range.

100mV to ?: A high enough voltage will cause the DC protection to kick in. This happens at a level determined by the designer, but is usually equivalent to about a diode drop (600mV)or so. Needless to say, if you are listening to an amp with 100mV or more of DC offset, you have no idea what the amp really is supposed to sound like. Indeed, some amps without a differential input are actually designed to have a bit of DC at the outputs, but this is triple-rare, and I don’t think anyone here owns one. (in my book it’s piss-poor design, but if you can sell it WTH..)
Note, I personally do not know if the guy's method for testing for DC offset at an amp's output/s is correct or not.
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One obvious question, how loud are you listening to your music?

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