@agriculturist I have had the same problem you describe. I ended up placing cork/rubber pads (small 2" x 2" blocks that I had on hand) next to the location that I wanted to place the cone so I could arrange the cone into the position I wanted and then jently lifted up the compoient just a bit and removed the block.
- ...
- 90 posts total
Believe it or not the paper label should be removed from any and all DH Cones as it degrades the sound a smidgen. It has to do with the whole idea that the interface needs to be very hard. The only exception I can think of are DH Squares, which are not particularly hard in the extreme sense of the word. |
Thanks again for the tip, Geoff. This makes me think that adhesive might not be such a great idea either. I suppose some adhesives might work better than others. The only reason I thought of it actually was that it should make it easier to ensure the cones stay in place when trying to get them under the amp. |
@agriculturist the adhesive is a huge no-no. You want to avoid anything that will introduce another interface between your footer and the amp. Some sort of squishy gluey stuff will just reduce the effectiveness of the coupling amp to footer. Many manufacturers make add on footers with threads that you can swap for the OEM feet but I don't think this is necessary. If you follow the setup method I recommended and/or use some shim blocks as @lak suggested you should be fine. I actually went so far as to buy some low jacks to assist when I needed to swap the feet under my amps stand while leaving the amps in situ -- something like this may make your job easier (although they have a minimum height of 4.75" which is still pretty high) https://www.strombergcarlson.com/rv-steps-step-accessories/stabil-step-jacks/stabil-step-jack-model-jss-4/ |
- 90 posts total