Why don't amplifier Companies use high end fuses?


My equipment - Raven Integrated Reflection MK2 tube amp 58wpc. / Lumin A-1 DAC Streamer / Synology NAS / Isotex Aquarius Power Conditioner / Furutech Rhodium Plug / Sonus Faber Amati Homage Tradition speakers.  

I have read thousands of comments on upgraded fuses improving the performance of sound.  I am very open minded but not sold either way.  So, the question I have is....if fuses were so important, than why don't Amplifier companies all install them as OEM equipment?  To me, if they are as good as people say, that would provide companies who use them a competitive advantage?  

Every High End Audio store I go to in Phoenix have told me it does not make a difference and is a waste of money.  For the record, I have fuses purchased at an automotive store for under $10 and I think my sound is awesome.  The Company that built my amp tested the Synergistic Fuses and he emphatically said there was no difference.  

If I were to try a fuse for fun, given my equipment, what would your recommendation be to try?  
willgolf
There is a relatively new product called Anti Vibration Magic, which works. The painters tape mimics the same effect. A buddy of mine uses black electrical tape ( which comes in many colors ). AVM is quite expensive ( imo ), and is used by a few high end audio manufacturers, and is very popular in the diy community. A long, long time ago, I was one of the 1st ( that I knew of ) that used mortite, under the platters of direct drive tts. At that time, I had a friend who was an engineer with Nakamichi, who told me about a simple and easy tweak, that I have been doing for years ( similar to AVM ). This tweak was to use a non glue, waterproof, silicon sealant, available at your Lowes or HD ( even Walmart ), and with a tooth pick ( or something like it ), apply to areas within a component. Wiring, capacitors, circuit boards and the chassis. Caveat : MUST LET IT DRY. It is all removable, and, can be quite messy. But, incredible improvement. This can be for the same purpose as adding a piece Dynamat ( or similar product ) to the underside of a component lid, to dampen vibrations. Anyone who feels I am looney ( kosst ), I do not care. Never knock it until you try it. MrD
If anyone wants to try it, I use Dynaflex 230, window and door sealant, by DAP. It is available in a squeeze tube, but I purchase it in the 10.1 ounce tubes. If you purchase it in these larger tubes, you need a caulk gun, and, need to puncture a seal at the bottom of the tip ( after cutting off the tip itself ). The color does not matter, but I use clear. It comes out white, but becomes clear after it dries. I finished up a Monster Cable power thingy, and, unbelievable ( not my first conditioner ). Another thing. i DO NOT DO THIS ON ANY EQUIPMENT UNDER A MANUFACTURES WARRANY, as it would likely void it. I only dabble in the used market anyway, and, I do it to products I intend to keep.
One last thing. There are many parts within a component that are temperature sensitive, in other words, get hot ( transistors, resistors, transformers, tubes ), that I encourage caution. I do not apply on these, but if given room and with proper heat dissipation, certainly around them.  For tubes, I recommend dampers, and not caulk ( or AVM ).
Last thing. Certain parts within a component chassis are very heat sensitive, and require dissipation of that heat ( transistors, resistors, transformers, and some others ). Proceed with caution. I leave these components alone, but will apply around them if given the room for proper heat dissipation. Tubes, I recommend dampers, nothing more.