Which watts are the right watts in SS amps?


Hello Sports Fans!

More than a few people over the years on these pages have said only those SS amps which double down in output power as impedance drops are truly special or worthy amps. Eg., 200 @ 8ohms; 400 @ 4 ohms; 800 @ 2 ohms; etc.

Not every SS amp made does this trick. Some very expensive ones don’t quite get to twice their 8 ohm rated power when impedance halves to four ohms. BAT, darTZeel, Wells, and Ypsalon to name just a few.

An amps ‘‘soul’’ or it’s ‘voice’ is the main reason why I would opt in on choosing an amp initially and keeping it. Simultaneously , I’d consider its power and the demands of what ever speakers may be intended to be run with it or them.

I’ve heard, 80% of the music we are listening to is made in the first 20wpc! I’m sure there’s some wisdom in there somewhere as many SS amps running AB, are biased to class A Only for a small portion of the total output EX. 10 – 60 wpc of 150 or 250 wpc.

After all, any amps true output levels are a complete mystery when anyone is listening to music anyhow.

I suspect, not being able to actually measure true power consumption, the vast majority of listening sessions revolve around 60wpc or so being at hand with traditional modern reasonably efficient speakers.

Sure, there are those speakers which don’t fit into the traditional loudspeaker power needs mold such as panels or electrostats, and this ain’t about them.

The possibility of clipping a driver is about the only facet in amp to speaker matching which gives a person pause while pondering this or that amplifier.

I feel there is more to how good an amp is than its ability tou double output power with 50% drops in speaker impedance.

However, speakers are demanding more power lately. Many are coming out of the gates with 4 ohm ‘nominal’ IMPs which lower with fluctuations in frequency. Add in larger motors on larger drivers, multiple driver arrays, and on paper these SOTA speakers appear to need more power.

IMHO It is this note which introduces great concern.

I’ve read every article I can find on Vienna Acoustics Music. Each one says give them lots of watts for them to excel.

Many times good sounding speakers I’ve owned sounded better with more power, albeit from arguably a better amp.

I tend to believe having more than an adequate amount of cap power is indeed integral. … naturally the size and type of transformers in play possess a strong vote for an amps ability to successfully mate with speakers.

Controlling a driver’s ability to stop and restart is as well a key to great sound and only strong amplifiers can manage this feat. Usually this gets attributed to ‘damping’ factor, but damping as I read it is more a shadow than a tangible real world figure as it depends on numerous factors. Speaker cable length alone can alter damping factors.

A very good argument exists about those mega watt amps voices. Each 500 or 600 wpc amp or amps, I’ve heard have had stellar voices too, not merely more watts.

So is it predominately these mega watt power house amps souls or their capacities that fuels the speakers presentation?

Would you buy an ‘uber expensive’ amp based more on its voice or soul, than on its ability to output loads of watts, even if you feel the amp may be somewhat under powered for the application?

Choosing this latter option also saves one money as the more powerful amps do cost more than their lower outputting siblings.

Please, share your experiences if possible.

Tanks muchly!

blindjim
I’m reading thru amp measurements done here and there, and often the terms get conveyed as ‘db’ losses or gains of voltage, I suspect. When the DB comes up, I am lost.
@blindjim Decibels are a logarithmic expression. They are handy because our ears are logarithmic as well. Voltages and audio equipment in general are linear expressions, so sometimes conversion is needed.

1 decibel is the least difference the ear can detect.
3 db is a minimum easiest change in volume that we hear. +3db requires twice as much power, -3db is half the power
6 db is a doubling of voltage, not power. This can be a bit confusing!
10 db is what we perceive as 'twice as loud' and requires 10X more power
20 db is 100x more power.  30db is 1000x more power.

In amplifiers there is something known as 'golden decibels', an expression that comes from the radio broadcast industry. 3 db represents a doubling of power, and to hear any significant increase in volume you need 3 db, so this gets increasingly expensive and in amps, the more power the less likely it will sound like music. This is why speaker efficiency is so important.

Voltage gain can be expressed as a ratio and can also be expressed in decibels. Here is a handy calculator if you need to make the conversion:
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-gainloss.htm
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This gives the Mac a very non fatiguing sound especially when listening loudly for long periods.

That's because they sound like a big fat sponge, no life, no dynamic contrast, that's why they're not much of a hit amongst audiophiles, but the "glitz queens" love them.

Cheers George 
The Mac autoformer takes care that the amp drives the rated output across all loads 2,4,8, without raising distortion! (which these other brands dont do)

This reeks of MacItosh proper-gander
"Good designed" solid state amps are designed so the output transistors are used in their most linear part of their curve.

Cheers George
@atmasphere
Thank you.

You said earlier, there are a lot of amps that will work for you.

I agree. Finding the exact right one is the issue. Or exact right 3 for that matter. Or even finding the exact wrong ones helps too.

I think, knowing no better, it would be an easier task were more speakers 8 ohm impedance.

RE speaker eff
I often see sensitivity and impedance figures noted by makers on their speakers. Now, I’ve been reading where possible, measurements are made on which ever unit, and am often lost once more until the final analysis commentary arrives indicating if the tester felt positive or not about what all they saw from this or that model.

Although, I don’t routinely see an item declared as speaker efficiency, per se.

Is this a product of some other factors or measurements? Or is efficiency another term for sensitivity?

I’m thinking this is more involved than that somehow.

Best regards