Why does unplugging/replugging TT leads from tube phono pre-amp reset dead channel?


I have a BAT VK P-10SE with Superpak.  Tubed phono preamp.  When one of the channels drops out (it actually is out when the system powers up), I used to go nuts trying to figure out which tube needed replacing.  I have learned, after much frustration, that simply unplugging the lead from the Turntable - and plugging it back in - solves the problem.  Sometimes it's the left channel.  Sometimes the right.  And if I leave the system on with no music playing for a while, on occasion a channel will drop out.  I have asked at several stereo shops...no one know why this works.  Or what the real underlying cause of the problem is.  When it works...it sounds great.  No indication of a tube issue.  And the cartridge - Shelter 901 - sounds great, too.  Any advice is welcome.  Thanks.

Joe
128x128jmfawdofile
No advice, only a comment. I’m surprised that when mentioned your TT was an LP12, that everyone didn’t  immediately blame the TT. I have an LP12 and just it’s mention seems to bring out all sorts of haters. It’s gotten comical. Seriously, good luck resolving your issue. 
Well, Merry Christmas and Holiday from an LP12 owner here;
Joe, I just went through 3 months of a similar problem with an intermittent drop out with my older LP 12/Lingo/Troika/Ekos.  One channel would cut in and out with music at times. Then it would stay out for a longer periods; I refitted cables and connectors, which helped for a few weeks and I thought little of it.  As the channel dropped out for longer periods of time eventually the cable jostling didn't help as it did on some occasions before. 

Testing the Troika cartridge leads was not revealing or helpful . Though stored and used little, it may have seen too many years and developed suspension problems.  I do not have duplicate components for everything to swap out and check and I could not just put the Troika in another turntable setup.  Swapping channels isolated the placed the problem before the preamp. So when I buy a cheap MM cartridge and put it the LP12 and find both channels now working fine the next 3 days I'm convinced the Troika is faulty and need to figure a hefty budget for replacing it, and perhaps going ahead with silver or Cardas front to back TT rewiring for the LP12, which had been one of the potential problems. 

After weeks of researching cartridges, and tonearm rewiring, etc (and fortunately before buying any) with sporadic listening the channel again starts dropping out, but now it stays out---steady, consistent, predictable---to where it is easy to troubleshoot and isolate--NOT to the LP12 but rather downstream to the American Hybrid Technology phono stage.   It turned out that there was a cracked/loose solder joint(s) in the connections  power supply umbilical into the board on the main unit. Being 15-20 years old both R and L connections were weak and needed reworked.  Whether an initial cold solder joint or just aging and strain from connecting/disconnecting the umbilical was impossible to tell and didn't matter.

[btwThe Troika works fine it turns out when the phono stage is working, as is the entire LP 12 setup.  I must admit it can be easy to jump to conclusions and blame older gear- especially wading through the dialogue and diatribe between all the Linnies and LP12 Bashers-kinda makes you want to tear your table apart and rewire it...though it might be a good upgrade for a later time it shouldn't be an emotional knee jerk reaction I felt at first...]

I came to a reasonable conclusion early on that was entirely wrong  when swapping out cartridges  because of the intermittent nature of the problem and not being able to confirm the Troika as the problem in another system, and nearly spent thousands to fix a $150 problem.  I was lucky to have waited looking at options and have things worsen and declare itself further; it also helped immensely having some duplicate components --so when an older Adcom processor phono stage was substituted in the system and resolved the the drop out for a perfect 10-14 days  it was then clear to take the AHT phono stage in for testing in another system.  A few dabs of solder and cable anchor and all is well. What a vexing problem from a tiny, inconspicuous spot.   Whether the source for your problem ends up similar or not I wish the best of luck, perseverance and much patience.  and Happy Holidays.
Lary
Hi All,
Thanks for your patience with the silence during the holidays.  I have a few things to report.
- First, I'm grateful for the suggestion to look at the load on the Shelter 901.  The recommended loading is 100.  I had it set at 47K.  I dropped it down from 10K, to 1K, to 100.  Seems to balance the treble/mids so much better...but also, the dropouts seem to have stopped.  This may have been the cause of the issue, Al.  Thanks.

- I also examined each tube carefully.  One of the 6N7Ss had a hairline crack on the base.  I replaced it.  Could this have caused BOTH channels to be randomly dropping??

- I have been listening all week...and the drop out occurred only once after those changes.  I did notice a big dustball on the stylus.  Removed it, did the unplug/replug...and no more issues.  Could that be a factor??

- I appreciate the LP12 support.  I like the table...other than the click in the bb at the bottom of the sub platter spindle. ( I can hear it on very soft passages or before the music starts.)  I think in your situation, the MM change from MC might point to Al's solution.  

- I don't know what a cold solder crack would even look like.  But the Phono preA was at BAT about a year ago...so I assume they would have noticed.

- The system sounds the best it ever has.  I'll keep you posted.

Happy New Year.

Joe
None of the glitches you discovered leads to an easy explanation for what you experienced, in my opinion, but it's good that you found them.  And it's even better that you are now able to listen for longer periods without that aggravating problem, no matter what the cause.  I don't think that, because your unit was at BAT a year ago, we can rule out a cold solder joint that is intermittent.  If the unit functioned flawlessly at BAT on the workbench, they would never have had cause to look for such a problem.  And such problems can be near to invisible by inspection.  Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and re-solder everything, in order to get rid of an intermittent solder fault.  (I don't suggest you need to do that, since you are doing fine as is.) Happy New Year.