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My JL Audio sub is dead. What exactly happened?

So at my wife's request, I hooked up a Roku to my main system. Roku is a device for internet streaming movies and tv. The connection between the Roku and my preamp, a Meridian G68, was a 12 foot optical cable.

The first night, I hook up the Roku and it works perfectly.

The next night, I move some cables around, then I hook up the Roku again, exactly the same way as the previous evening. I get picture but no sound. Weird. I pondering what I might have done wrong when out of the speakers... POP. POP! POP!!!

Uh oh.

I dive for the amps, switch them off. The POPs stop immediately. But...

Now there's a TERRIFYING HIGH PITCHED PULSATING NOISE coming from somewhere in the room. I finally realize it's coming from the sub, a JL Audio Fathom 113. I dart across the room, switch it off.

I stand frozen, savoring the final moments of the fantasy that maybe things aren't that bad.

Here are some questions in no particular order...

1. I suspect the amp in the sub is fried. Does that sound right?

2. Where did those POPs come from? Could a damaged optical cable do it? Or maybe the optical cable wasn't fully seated?

3. Do I really have to ship this 150 pound sub to Florida? Or do you think there's any chance of finding someone local to fix it? (I'm in L.A.) The sub is out of warranty, btw.

4. I tried to take the panel off the rear of the amp (I know, lethal voltages inside) with the thought that maybe I would just bring the amp portion of the sub to someone local to fix. I removed about 12 screws from the rear panel and still it doesn't budge. Why can't I open this thing?

If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears. If not, thanks for reading.

Bryon

P.S. The rest of the system appears to be fine.
bryoncunningham
doro
2 posts
 
Hello everyone, my name is Salvador.

I also have a Fathom F113 that has died. This is the second time that happens to me. The first I changed it for a new amplifier.

I have a friend who is trying to repair the second amplifier, but we have a problem, 3 resistors have been burned and the numbers that identify them have been erased to be able to replace them.

Could anyone have the amplifier in sight, give me the numeration of the R541, R542 and R544 resistance?

Thank you very much and sorry for my English, it's a Google translation.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SIRK15iPahI/WjUqB_fk_hI/AAAAAAAAnOI/EuoOr9Jbk7cFZS-aSHW2drJcuzdw4...
gammaman
11 posts
 
Not sure if the resistance is what is printed on them, but it is as follows:

R541: IR50
R543: 2211
R544: 1500
gammaman
11 posts
 
Just removed the circuit board from my F113, and I can see that when I sent it in to JL for repair they had indeed replaced the 35v/100uf cap that netforceatg posted a picture of, in fact they had put in a 105°C unit. Until I replace it I won't know if the same cap went bad again, but will use a 125°C spec this time. Have to wonder if there's a design flaw.
doro
2 posts
 
Hello gammaman,

I am very grateful for your help and for the information.

If you still have the amplifier in view, could you tell me the numbering of the R542?

I will also consider the replacement of the 35v / 100uf cap.

Thank you very much.
jimmy2615
440 posts
 
To be fair to JL, I still have the same sub I mentioned in my March '17 post.  To recap, I am on my third one now.  This time my dealer replaced the amp with a new one sent by JL almost a year ago, and I have been using it a lot with no problems since then.  Perhaps they figured out what was wrong in their amp modules. 
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