Mapleshade Isolation: Does Nothing?


Okay guys. I built a Mapleshade-style isolation platform out of a 3” thick maple butcher block and Mapleshade footers (also Isoblocks). This was originally to isolate a SET amp, but after moving to solid state amps and trying to get into vinyl, I used it to try mounting a MoFi StudioDeck, figuring this would benefit the most from the Mapleshade-style isolation system.

Turntable -> Mapleshade Heavyfooters (3, not threaded) -> Butcher Block -> Mapleshade Iso Blocks -> Pangea audio rack (spiked through carpet).

When using headphones and turning up the gain on my preamp, I can clearly hear the sound of lightly dragging a fingernail across the butcher block. I can also clearly hear it when going across the rack shelf the butcher block in sitting on. So, the vibration is being transmitted up through the Iso blocks, through the butcher block, up through the Heavyfooters, up through Derlin platter, and into the needle.

Placing the turntable directly on the butcher block using its built-in spring loaded feet, vibrations are still transmitted but are much attenuated. So, this experiment leads me to believe that the Mapleshade system does JACK ALL. Am I doing something wrong that could lead to this result? Am I misunderstanding something basic about how this system is supposed to work?
madavid0
@fleschler 

I'm curious and have a few questions:
1) What type of floor is in that room?
2) What covering is on the floor?
3) Are the Mapleshade 2" platforms directly on the floor laying flat or are they elevated on some type of device?
4) Are you Signature III's (nice speakers by the way) on spikes on top of the platforms?

Thanks for the clarifications!
Hi lak-here are my answers.
1. & 2. My floor is concrete with plush carpeting. 
3. The Mapleshade platforms are laying flat on the carpet (I previously had 1" thick granite tiles-worse than directly on carpeting). 
4. The Signature IIIs are spikes on top of the platforms.

Hi slaw - My room is 13' wide and 30' deep to an open foyer which measures 8' X 55'.  There is antique wood and glass furniture in the foyer and adjacent dining room, mostly stuffed wood chairs and plush couches in the listening room.  The speakers are 6' from the front wall and 3' from the full right wall and half height left wall which is open to the dining room.  The ceiling is sloped from 8' at the front wall (speaker side) to 10' in the foyer.  This room has excellent acoustics. 

My main audio room is 25' X 23' X 10-12'6" cathedral with a rear 6' X 8' audio equipment closet area.  Unfortunately, when I built the room, which has a 6" thick 3/4" rebar reinforced concrete floor,  plush carpeting, 10" and 12" exterior walls with staggered 2X6 studs, dual 5/8" X drywall panelling,  LPs & 78s line most of the four walls and there are three sets of dual glazed, wood casement windows. 

I forgot to build the ceiling correctly.  I have a terrible slap echo from the single 5/8" X drywall ceiling with open 6' attic.  So, I recently purchase Synergistic Research HFT room treatment Level 1 and 2 and dual speaker kit treatment on a friend's recommendation (oregonpapa on Audiogon forums).  The result is that the slap echo is virtually eliminated when music is playing (no bright or hard upper mid frequencies).  Hand claps are nonreverberant when music is playing.   In the past, I tried all sorts of acoustic treatment but the absorbers tended to dull the dynamics and collapse the soundstage while diffusers only made the sound harder and brighter.  The single SR HFT on the ceiling is a wonder.  It really makes a huge difference and I removed all acoustic wall treatments after installing the SR system.  It was also less expensive than the panelling I had installed.  
Glass is the worst for sound thin and bright wood is colored and has no great definition or detail. Good luck!!
Maple shade did nothing for my system.  On top of that, it scratches very easy, and the varnish has worn off in spots.  The finishing is amateur! Don't waste your money.