Best DIY power cable. Why not make?


Ok perhaps I don't get it.  You have hot, neutral, ground and connectors.  I am looking for advise from those that have found the secret sauce in making power cables or at least those that have had great success.  With all the quality cable and connectors why not make your own?  I refuse to pay $2,000 plus for a power cable that would take a hour to build.  I am seeking your guidance and suggestions.  Thanks!   
goose
I am building a new stereo system with tube amplifier (most likely quicksilver mid monos) and LSI 15 polk towers (capable of bi-amping) .

Wanted to see if I can make my own speaker wires to save money and get better quality. My alternative was AQ 4. Really not willing to spend any more. Need about 5-6 feet for each cable. Never have done this before, but did some reading on the subject.

After reading multiple forums, decided to focus on Dueland tin plated copper wire, which has excellent reviews for the price.

My thoughts:
1. Buy 12, 16, 20, and 26 awg wires of equal length (26 solid core, others are stranded).
2. Braid all 4 wires together. Strip all 4 wires on both ends from insulation.
3. On the amp end, connect all 4 wires to the binding posts (bare wire or through connectors, undecided yet). Amp is not capable of by-amping.
4. On the speaker side, connect 26, 20, and 16 awg wires to the upper post (high frequencies), and connect 12 awg wire to the lower post (low frequencies).

Any thoughts, comments, suggestions? Good or bad idea? Can I really screw this up and burn the amp?

If I use terminations, what brand is good? Low mass? Not looking for something very expensive as am I doing this to try to avoid paying $$$$ for brand name cables but still get better sound than my current 12 awg monoprice wire.

My primary goal, since I am not an engineer or electrician, is to not damage the expensive new equipment.

Thanks very much.


@sophie999, I not sure that you are going to accomplish a better sound using the various gauges of Duelund wire, I suppose one never knows for sure unless they experiment.
With that said here is what I'm currently using: Duelund tinned - copper in cotton oil impregnated wire. 16 gauge going to my top speaker terminals and 12 gauge going to my lower speaker terminals. Terminated with the KLE Bananas, and I used WBT with 4% silver solder.
Twist every two inches and every foot, hold in place with a small piece of heat shrink. Color code the + and - ends with red and black heat shrink. If you want, use a carbon fiber jacket on the outside of the speaker cables to further reject interference.
I've been told that the New OYAIDE TUNAMI NIGO V2 wire sounds better than the Duelund wire and I have some on order however I have not received it yet, probably another two week wait or longer.
@sophie999 - also take a look at these

http://image99.net/blog/files/d048bbacfce9bcad4a025be804771d9a-76.html

And get these Bananas - they outperform bare wire

http://image99.net/blog/files/f6ae775e30339e2b0375b739988237b7-77.html

Duelund wire would be good for the signal conductor, but it is not required for the neutral

BTW - that is my website - so if you have any questions ask away

Cheers
A word of warning regarding the use of solid core conductors for power cables...

They can...
- break
- come out of the plugs/connectors

Granted after a while - but that time frame really depends on the user

I’m all for safety and will always use stranded conductors.
williewonka
A word of warning regarding the use of solid core conductors for power cables...

They can...
- break
- come out of the plugs/connectors
Yup! That's why UL listed cords are always stranded. Solid core is for use only up to the receptacle.