Need cable to soften brightness just a little?


Would appreciate some hand holding on solving a small problem. I think a different cable interconnect might be what I need. Right now I am using Blue Jeans interconnects.

Have three new variables in our TV Stereo system.
New Oppo UDP-205
Musical Fidelity A3cr Preamp
Pioneer SX-1050 Stereo Receiver (bypassing it’s preamp)

Still in use is the Arcam SR250 AV Receiver.
Speakers are floor standing Spendor FL-6.

I am an opera lover and classical music devotee and like really good audio. The Arcam SR250 is just perfect for ordinary tv watching, but I soon found out it can’t equal the musicality of a good stereo receiver, so I rigged up a way of using my Audiomat Arpege tube amp for musical program listening.   But  I just found a better use for the Arpege and decided to replace it with the Musical Fidelity Preamp and the Pioneer Receiver.   The Oppo is just a few days old as well, replacing an Oppo BDP-83SE.

There is a big improvement in clarity of spoken dialogue.
Everything sounds brighter and clearer and there is an unmistakable sense of power from the much more powerful Pioneer.
Musically it is harder to evaluate. At first there was a feeling of “wow, major improvement”, but on further listening it feels a little bright. Might be the sort of brightness that causes music fatigue.

How do I take just a little of the edge off the brightness without losing the wonderful clarity I’m getting?

And how to go about figuring out which of the three is causing that little bit of edginess.


128x128echolane
I’m listening now after about 48 hours of continuous play.  Too soon to be sure, but my first impression is there has been some improvement, though I’m not sure how much.  I need much more time for listening to a range of familiar music programming.

david-ten pointed out one of the more significant changes, moving out the Oppo 83SE in favor of the Oppo 205.  I would be horribly disappointed if there weren’t a big change!  I was probably too impatient as  I should have waited to move in the Pioneer and the Musical Fidelity until I had listened to the new Oppo.

As an aside, I learned something important after I bought the SE.  It was much touted for its special analog section (the SE part), and it was the reason I paid its premium price, but when my audio guy opened it up to put in the all region kit for me, he almost sneered when he saw the power supply, a switch mode instead of the superior linear power supply.  I was pleased to learn the 205 does not have an inferior power supply - it surely ought to sound better.

I have compared the Arcam and the Pioneer.  All I have to do for a/b comparison is to mute one or the other.   The Pioneer leaves the Arcam in the dust.  The only difference is the Arcam is getting audio via HDMI, the Musical Fidelity/Pioneer by way of RCA interconnects.

In my opinion, you have two things against you with using the Arcam.  The first thing is that any digital audio transferred over HDMI will sound worse than digital audio sent over digital COAX or even analog audio cables.  The data bandwidth and clock timing required by HDMI interface plays havoc with the sound quality when the receiver attempts to re-assemble the digital data (which could have bits missing due to data bandwidth sharing with video) and the digital clock timing, which is already compromised.  It is always better to use digital COAX to transfer audio.  The only exception is the high res bluray audio formats (DTS-MA and Dolby TrueHD).  2-channel PCM and old school dolby digital /DTS will always sound better over COAX.

The second thing is that ARCAM has its own unique sound.  While it is very well regarded, in my opinion, it has a very weird sound.  It is very clean and high definition, but to me it just doesn't sound realistic.  ARCAM likes to use what they call Class G amplifier.  It is a weird combination of a Class A amp/power supply circuit with what looks like a Class D type secondary power supply that is switched in/out as needed.  I think the result is that it gives more of a Class D type signature, which lacks air and just doesn't "sing" in my opinion. 

I think these two items are why you feel that the Pioneer receiver sounds so much better (Pioneer is standard Class AB architecture).

Hi Echolane,

I'm someone who's very sensitive to fatigue issues and was about to start my own thread on this topic when I stumbled across yours.  What you're saying about your system's upgrade in resolution and accuracy being accompanied by fatigue problems, very much mirrors my own experience.  I've found that even the smallest bit of tinkering can be very disruptive for system equilibrium and that major configuration changes--what many audiophiles would consider to be a "better" sounding and more detailed rig--can be a very painful listening experience for me.  I can offer a few suggestions here, but am also looking for feedback myself.

Like others, I suspect that it will take some time for your system to stabilize and "burn in," especially as you've made three major component changes!

Since we're talking about the synergy of a completely-upgraded system, you might want to take a look at  the other cables in addition to the interconnects.   

-- What kind of speaker wire do you use?  Your Spendors---do you biwire them or use jumpers?  I've found that biwiring with Mogami 2921 creates a more forgiving, laid-back sound. 

--Your power cords? I recently purchased some Cardas Clear-M and they really helped tame the brightness in my system caused by the introduction of a new streamer.

-- Do you use Wifi or ethernet cable?  I found that that Supra Cat8 was much better for fatigue problems than generic ethernet.  

--Finally, as for ICs, I've found Cardas Quadlink to be the most musical and least fatiguing of the several that I've auditioned. 

With respect to the major components, I have Spendors as well, but used in conjunction with a tube amp and a non-oversampling DAC. As you might gather, I've had to take a lot of steps to create a more smooth-sounding audio signature, since  my  sensitivity limits me to a mid-fi approach.



Thanks, auxinput for info on HDMI Audio.   And the compliment on the Musical Fidelity!  It was wasted at my computer.

It never occurred to me to try the Arcam’s digital outputs because I’ve always preferred analogue.  Which gets me to thinking....I don’t believe I’ve ever tried the Arcam’s audio analog option either.  Maybe the Arcam can sound better than I’ve given it credit for sounding.  I will need to do more experimenting !!.  For sure, the Arcam does not sing for me, but maybe I can I prove it some.

 I have plenty of RCA interconnects I can cable in to try analog outputs for audio quality, but I will have to buy a digital cable to listen to its digital audio.  It looks like Arcam will accept digital coax/RCA (I didn’t see S/PDIF).

PBS did me a favor today by broadcasting Tosca, a  Live from the Met offering, giving me a chance to listen to music via a different source from the Oppo.  There was less of a difference between the Pioneer and the Arcam, and less brightness.  The Oppo is now the prime suspect for the source of some excess brightness.

hegelsjh, to answer a couple of your questions, I do bi-wire them
 Slendors.  My speaker wire is custom and I paid a premium for it, but it’s too long ago to remember any details.

what DAC are you using?

i have no power conditioning anywhere.  When things settle down, i plan to get involved with that.

The only Ethernet connected device so far in my TV room stereo system is the Roku Ultra.  I’m using Cat6a from Blue Jeans Cable.  I will be attaching Ethernet cable to the Oppo as I intend to use it to support streaming.  

I am soon to be adding an SSD inside a Naim Uniti Core to enable streaming.  I’m hoping the Oppo will allow me to include my TV system in the streaming network.   I’m a complete novice to the streaming world and have barely a clue so far.  I’m terribly worried I’ll be disappointed with the audio quality, but at the same time hoping I will be pleasantly surprised.