2. amps-preamps
  3. 136819-95931

Integrated amp + DAC + room correction all-in-one for Nola Boxer 1 + REL R328 sub

Dear forum,

I’m looking to upgrade my integrated amp + external DAC source to an all-in-one integrated amp + DAC + room correction box. Budget to $2500, may stretch to $2800 if super-compelling.

I currently use a Creek 5350se integrated amp, with external DAC input from a Yamaha RX-V773 AVR (TI/Burr-Brown PCM1681 DAC chip on whatever circuit Yamaha cooked up).

Loudspeakers are Nola Boxer 1 on Dynaudio Stand 4, and REL R328 sub connected by Neutrix cable to main L/R binding posts on amp. Loongg runs of ProWire speaker and Neutrix cables through crawlspace to loudspeakers / sub.

Music = classical + opera, electronic, new & old rock, alternative, trap, house

Room is 18’ x 12’ x 13’h average ceiling height (2808 cu feet), hardwood floors, random furniture objects. Speakers 6’ apart, REL sub in corner to right of right speaker, listening position 8’ from center of speaker axis.

Requirements (but will flex if compelling):

  1. one box, no separates: amp + DAC and ideally + room correction
  2. ethernet-in on DAC circuit <= can be talked out of this if sensible alternatives
  3. ’classic’ & useful front-plate design <= no NuPrime IDA-16
  4. simple, solid, non-stupid remote <= again, no NuPrime. Rogue doesn’t get hi marks here either
  5. known affinity with Nola Boxer 1 a huge plus

Here are units I’m researching in DESC order of coveting-ness:

  • Hegel H190 <= yes $4K USD srp, will stretch to $2800 to buy used
  • Parasound HINT6 Halo <= ESS Sabre32 Reference ES9018K2M DAC, new product, no reviews/track-record. No ethernet-in either. Will stretch to $2800 for used ... and probly have to wait a long time for that.
  • Creek Evolution 100A <= no ethernet-in. Eventual poor reliability experience with my existing Creek 5350se, which used a lo-quality ALPS input switch, which is failing
  • Micromega M-100 <= will stretch to $2800 for used. No ethernet-in afaict.
  • Rogue Cronus Magnum II <= reviews suggest cheap-feeling remote. No ethernet-in.
  • Yamaha A-S801 <= ’budget’ solution at $900 USD, ESS Sabre ES9010K2M DAC circuit. Needs Yamaha wireless connector for ethernet-in. May not have room correction?

All helpful feedback appreciated including units I haven’t considered. Relatedly, I’m wondering how much I’d give up if I went the ’budget’ route (Yamaha A-S801).
usery
benb
34 posts
 
Since this is turning into a Micromega M100/150 thread, I've got a couple questions as I'm contemplating setting up the M100 when it arrives.  Let me know if I should start a Micromega M-One thread to make life easier.

For hooking up a subwoofer:  They state the sub out has a 400 Hz low pass filter.  Most subs seem to only be adjustable up to 160 Hz or so.  Is there a gap there or don't I understand the low pass filter?  I'll probably hook up the sub (Adire Audio Rava) at speaker output and fun my speakers full range to avoid this.  But if there is an advantage to the sub out, I'd like to understand.
Also, the online manual really doesn't go into network connections.  The M100 doesn't have WiFi, correct?  So it needs to be done by ethernet?  My router is quite a ways away from the rig.  Can I get a WiFi extender and run ethernet from that to the M100?  Will I get better sound with a Mac Mini through USB?  That will be kind of a pain because my library is on my main desktop and keeping the libraries synced may be difficult.  Sorry for the basic questions, but I can at least spend the time waiting for arrival making sure I have the correct auxiliary components and cables.  Thanks
audiotroy's avatar
audiotroy
3,807 posts
 
Please give us a call we can answear all your setup questions.

Dave and Troy
Audio Doctor NJ
benb
34 posts
 
Thanks.  I’ll try on Monday.  It might be good to get some general answers posted here as well for future users.  I can update as I learn.
djones51
4,947 posts
 
I am using an extender with one ethernet port to hook up the m 100 it doesn't have wifi. My wifi router is kinda old and I need to get a new one with ac ability  but so far it works running jriver using gizmo as the app control. It isn't the best sound the cdp is a lot better. My computer is old as well and it doesn't run jriver that great it can freeze it up. With fairly new computer and a good ac router and extender it should work pretty good. I don't use a sub. Looks like the amp has a limit of 400 I think you control the crossover at the sub you can't set it higher than 400 is what I think that means. The android app for the m100 really sucks don't know about the iOS app. If you got the MARS correction it works really well  at least in my sub optimal room. Took me two  tries to get it right still might tweak a bit more, you need to run it each time you move the speakers around so try to get as good a sound as possible first. 
audiotroy's avatar
audiotroy
3,807 posts
 
Netgear extender 85 bucks at Best Buy

Jriver on the  same network works great.

Jremote to control.

You can setup Jriver to audiophile network stream to provide 24/192k over network sounds way better than CD run that way.

Isoacoustics and good power.

Dave and Troy
Audio Doctor Nj 

More to discover