I have owned Michell tables since the seventies and with my first Gyro around 84 . I have owned a couple DC units after that original AC motor unit including the current SE I sold a couple years back. Now have my second Orbe SE, the first with AC motor and now with current DC motor/controller.
I change the oil every year. Not a recommendation , merely a service I choose to do to keep them performing new and "clean". I repaired tables in a past life so I take it as a very inexpensive opportunity to tune it up when removing the platter to thoroughly clean the residue around the perimeter, built up from the belts contact. If I don’t have the Michell oil at hand , Mobil synthetic 0W40 is what is recommended. It has no additives that are used to bond and fill micro scratches in cylinder walls for engines. The rifling in the bronze bearing is how the oil climbs from the well to the ball above.
Doing it yearly when the belt residue is cleaned just makes sense to do as it also puts the ball back at a new point of contact instead of 5 years of wear on a single point. The residue left on the platter/pulley is more detrimental to drag/speed and belt wear and should be done to all belt drives routinely/yearly. The oil can be left but for how little time and cost it takes why do a half arse job. Its a good opportunity to clean the table thoroughly of any dust and keeping it looking as new as well as performing as such and checking all layers for level and checking/ fine tuning suspension. Contrary to the false claims mostly by OCD individuals , The Gyro and Orbe are very easy to set the suspension and get the proper bounce , and they stay that way till moved or manipulated.
I change the oil every year. Not a recommendation , merely a service I choose to do to keep them performing new and "clean". I repaired tables in a past life so I take it as a very inexpensive opportunity to tune it up when removing the platter to thoroughly clean the residue around the perimeter, built up from the belts contact. If I don’t have the Michell oil at hand , Mobil synthetic 0W40 is what is recommended. It has no additives that are used to bond and fill micro scratches in cylinder walls for engines. The rifling in the bronze bearing is how the oil climbs from the well to the ball above.
Doing it yearly when the belt residue is cleaned just makes sense to do as it also puts the ball back at a new point of contact instead of 5 years of wear on a single point. The residue left on the platter/pulley is more detrimental to drag/speed and belt wear and should be done to all belt drives routinely/yearly. The oil can be left but for how little time and cost it takes why do a half arse job. Its a good opportunity to clean the table thoroughly of any dust and keeping it looking as new as well as performing as such and checking all layers for level and checking/ fine tuning suspension. Contrary to the false claims mostly by OCD individuals , The Gyro and Orbe are very easy to set the suspension and get the proper bounce , and they stay that way till moved or manipulated.