I’m selling a couple of passive high pass filters. Marchand manufactured.
High pass filter need
What is the best way to add a high pass filter to my front mains (Dynaudio C-1s) from my Mc intosh pre to McCormack DNA-2 amp.
A seperate line out from the pre goes to my JL sub which has its own filter.
I want the cleanest option that will not alter the C1 sound other than remove the lowest octaves they can’t really handle that the sub can. id like to reduce the amp and speaker from trying to work on the low end.
A seperate line out from the pre goes to my JL sub which has its own filter.
I want the cleanest option that will not alter the C1 sound other than remove the lowest octaves they can’t really handle that the sub can. id like to reduce the amp and speaker from trying to work on the low end.
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- 7 posts total
Thanks for the suggestions. The JL sub doesn’t have high pass outs so not an option. The Harrison labs FMOD look easy enough to try. Heck, I work in Dayton. (Location of Parts Express) i am more worried about over driving the C1 woofers than the DNA-2. Its a beast. 600 w per ch into 4ohms. So the port stuffing is also worth trying. |
You should check out this HSU high pass filter! http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/high-pass-filter.html |
To block highs from your main amp, at a specific chosen frequency, you have to know the amp’s input impedance, and choose the correct value of capacitor, to install in series with the input signal. The old Dahlquist DQ-LP1 passive/active crossovers used this method, in their high-pass section. In the Dahlquist manual(I’m providing the link), you’ll find a table(and formulas) that will help you determine what value of cap(and perhaps, resistor) is necessary, to meet your desired crossover point. Dahlquist used a 6dB/Oct slope, because higher orders cause phase shifts. These typically very small value/size components, can be easily installed either inside your preamp(at the outputs) or inside the amp(at the inputs). https://sites.google.com/site/mpbarney/home/dahlquist-dq-lp1 |
If you are running your system balanced this works well: Ashly XR-1001 https://www.amazon.com/Ashly-XR-1001-Crossover-Connection-Chassis/dp/B001UIQ1CM I used one for a while before upgrading to the JL CR1 which has a slightly better feature set but at more than 10X the cost. BTW, the Ashly has a jumper that you can remove to bypass the 20Hz hi pass (rumble) filter. |
- 7 posts total