Autoformers, The Benefits in matching amp to speaker



There has been a great deal of conversation about Autotransformers in this forum. Many think they are similar to the output transformers we use on Tube Amplifiers. They are not for some very important reasons. They are not wound the same way, they have no High Voltage insulation, they are wound with heavy low resistance wire and all the winding is used all the time. In addidtion part of the signal current is direct and part is transformed. 

  • THE WINDING.  When we make a traditional output transformer we have to insulate the primary from the secondary for over 1000 volts. This insulation takes up space and winding space is most dear to the designer as we want as much copper in there as possible. We then have to section the windings and interleave them. An interleave of 5 is good and some think 7 or 9 or even 11 is better but that raises the capacitance of the transformer and is hard on the tubes at high frequencies. An autotransformer has no DC voltage in the windings and thus can be bifilar wound (taking 2 or 3 or more wires at once). This increases the coupling and extends the high frequency response by a factor of 2 or more. My ouput transformers are good to 65 KHz and the Autofomer is good to 140 KHz. 

  • THE CORE: As to the core, an EI core is preferable over a torroid as the torroid will have saturation problems if connected to an amplifier that has a DC offset. An offest as low as 20 mV can swing the core in one direction toward saturation. An EI core has a very small air gap that will allow it to ignore rather large offesets. 

  • IN THE AMPLIFIER: Here's where the difference is between a conventional output transformer and a Autoformer occurrs. This is why Wiggins at Electro Voice created the CIrclotron circuit. In a conventional tube amplifier. for most of the signal, only one half of the output transformer is active. It is very difficult to make the two halves of a push pull transformer identical above 20 KHz where the feedback really cares about phase shift. Even the taps on an Ultralinear transformer can go out of phase at high frequencies. This causes the amplifier to ring on one half of the square wave. Though not widely talked about, we who design amplifiers are very familair with this problem. Wiggins realized that if he put the transformer in a bridge circuit that the primary would act as a whole and this problem would go away. That is the essence of the WIggins Circlotron. Because he wanted to keep the ampifier efficient he did use a high ratio transformer with conventional taps. BTW, we do not put taps on an amplifier to "match" the impedance of the speaker as we know it varies. We put them on there to deliver the proper ratio of voltage and current to make the amplifier happy. You can always use a lower tap and enjoy lower distortion, better damping, lower noise and extended tube life. You also extend the class A region. The only reason to use a higher or matched tap is to get the most power out of the amplifier if you play it loud. In the RM-4 manual I suggest this strongly and have termed it "Light Loading"

Now, what is an Autoformer going to do for you? If you have an OTL amplifier you should know that the power is greatly reduced into low impedance loads. Even worse is that low impedance loads will overheat the tubes at high power levels as most of the power supply voltage is being dropped across the tube not the load. So low impedance loads are hard on the tubes and cause higher distortortion All of these ills can be solved by the use of a proper Autoformer.
  
For OTL amplifiers that have high output impedance and produce their best performance into 16-32 ohms one needs a 6 or 8 to one step down ratio. This will make the speaker and amplifier very happy and still preserve the qualities of the OTL. A 4 to 1 is not enough. This is no problem to make and I have been using mine for many years.

An Autoformer can also be used in reverse if one has a low voltage, high current amplifier like an ML-2 which is 25 watts into 8 ohms but 100 into 2. Again a 4 to one will get you 100 watts and and an 8 to one even more. Remember the impedance ratio is the turns squared. So an even a 9 to 1 impedance is only 3 to 1 turns and 1/3 of the signal is direct through the primary.

I hope this clears up the differences in these two very different types of transformers and we can stop considering them as the same. While some may consider a transformer a band-aid, I consider it a device that makes the problem go away.

Please feel free to ask your questions.
128x128ramtubes
Much thanks for the information! 
Well I am certainly not literate in EE so a bit fuzzy on all of this but I did recently purchase some MC601 monos but have not heard them yet. Is your definition of the issue the same one as Mac has in their design?

I consider it a device that makes the problem go away.
When we introduced our Z-Music autoformer back about 1990, we always regarded it as a problem solver. The same is true of the ZEROs, which is a similar product.
Since we make OTLs, the problem to be solved is lower impedance speakers. We are in Magnaplanar's back yard and have a lot of local customers that wanted the the transparency of the Maggies combined with the transparency of OTLs. The autoformer was the answer, as its introduction didn't introduce the same loss of transparency that seems to be part of the conventional transformer route.
Paul Speltz, who makes the ZEROs, has a letter from Steve McCormick, a well-known manufacturer of solid state amps. In the letter, Steve says that his amps can drive 4 ohm loads easily, but he finds that when he uses the ZEROs to interface between the amp and 4 ohm load, it sounds better. Paul was pretty pleased to get that letter :)

Much thanks for the information!
Well I am certainly not literate in EE so a bit fuzzy on all of this but I did recently purchase some MC601 monos but have not heard them yet. Is your definition of the issue the same one as Mac has in their design?

I would be happy to comment on particular Mac designs using Autoformers. If anyone has a question and can provide a link to a schematic that would be a big help. Im not having much luck finding the SS amp schematics. 

I did find an early Mac SS amp that they admitted ran in class B, that was not such a good idea and I doubt they do that now.


Ralph,

I agree your amplifier is fine for the Maggies as the impedance is constant however the lowness of it is hard on the tubes. I look at low impedances are like driving a short. I did put a one ohm tap in the RM-200 and it will indeed output 100 watts into a 1 ohm load with good damping. So why did you stop making the Autoformers?

I am curious in reading you white paper and posts here that while you admit that an ESL can have a 10 to 1 impedance range you feel that it is appropriate to run such a speaker with high impedance drive. I was working for Beveridge when we did the model 2 and 3 speaker and was involved in the specification of the transformer for both(I was not winding yet). While we came up with something that kinda worked for the system 3 we found that system  2 was impossible due to the bass extension down to 30 Hz while the system 3 only required 200 Hz.

The original Beveridge direct drive amplifier produced 1500 VA (similar to watts). We could not make a transformer or hardly find a high enough current ampifier at the time to produce 1500 VA. This was in 1978. I did find a Mitsubishi amp that produced 60 amps but getting all those VA through the transformer was another challenge. When I questioned Bev as to why one needs 1500 VA he said. "go play some trumpet music and measure the current". I measured 1500 VA! This is why I make 5,000 volt direct drive amplifiers for ESLs.

Damn, this is great! For those in the San Francisco Bay Area, Roger Modjeski (RAM Tubes, Music Reference) teaches a course in amplifier design at The Berkeley Hi Fi School. You can build your own amp in the class, any kind you want. My home town is San Jose, and if I still lived there I’d do it myself. If you Google the school name, a website will be at the top of the list, and it contains all kinds of great amplifier design information.

If you truly want to "Walk the walk", this is the way to do it, not sticking pieces of wood and rubber in a 70’s Japanese receiver. Beware of false Prophets!