Neutral or Detailed. You can't have both

Reproduction of detail is a function of rise time, both in the electronics (some are faster than others) and the speakers. I.e., how fully  the speakers' drivers fully respond to low level input. The fast ones provide a full response. The slow ones don't. You can retrieve more detail by turning the treble up or goosing the signal to the tweeter, but then the treble becomes hyped up and you lose the neutral tonal balance.
Anyway, you can have detail *and* neutrality if the speaker drivers (and particularly the tweeters) have a fast rise time.
I have a pair of Magneplanar 1.7s and I get great neutrality and realistic detail at the same time. My tube preamps and Perreaux MOSFET amp also help the cause.

The discussion here is like something from the stone-age. Firstly the discussion starts with a confusion of enhanced treble with detail. Certainly you will hear more high frequency detail with hyped treble,  youwill also hear more high frequncy hash.
Let me introduce you to a new concept, mechanical resonance , all speakers and headphones (and cd players and turntables) suffer from it. The,same amount of energy going out from your speakers is going back into the enclosures through the speaker surrounds. That's Newton's every action has an equal and opposite reaction. This energy dies down eventually, probably within milliseconds by being converted to heat, and maybe some goes into the air. However there is enough floating around to mess up the speakers which are sitting on a vibrating case trying to send out clean signals.  We play with this problem using spikes for speakers or sorbothane footers. Neither is very effective although you will hear some improvement. Serious damping requires a lot of materials like sobothane glued to the enclosure, headphone case or what ever you have. Use self-stick, or industrial adhesives recommended by Sorbothane,  dense sorbothane (70 duro),  with additional backing on the glued sorb to create cobstrained damping.  I use 4 layers of electrical tape. Use as thick a layer of sorb as you can manage, 1/4, 1/8, 1/2, 1 inch even.  This technology is slowly filtering through the industry but no prediction when it will become universal.

I think in the real world, many of us who have more time and money to spend on our systems are getting up there in age. I am one of those. I know I have a rolled of high end starting at 12 kHz and a dip at about 5 kHz and I doubt if I can hear anything below 40 Hz at all. So maybe I do seek a little high end emphasis by nature. It's just a simple corrective adaptation. I spent a little while last night comparing the sonics of an Oppo BDP-95 and an EVS modded 105. Going from 105 to 95 back to 105 it was like 'Very nice'; to 'hey, the 95 seems to have more weight, which is nice', to 'no no. the 105 has the same weight AND I hear more detail'.

However, none of the younger people who have heard my system think it's too bright, so what does that mean?  ;^)

I have a pair of Yamaha NS1000x, very natural & detailed. Beryllium mid & high drivers. It's hard to find a speakers that can replace this