No one actually knows how to lculate what speaker cable they need

Mr. grannyring

Thanks.

When do you think you will get that 0 AWG cable and share with us?

Please be kindly reminded to use my format to present that data. Thanks.

Mr. han_n

At the time you were looking into the M1, did you know of FM Acoustics?

They are also Swiss made and have some excellent stuff.

For those who are worried of a speaker cables impedance (none resistance values, of capacitance and inductance, in addition to the resistance):

Capacitance: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor#Parallel-plate_model

The Parallel-plate model, of two thin parallel conductive plates resembling the two speaker wires (red and black) with a dielectric material in between (the cable's isolators).

The structure of such speaker cable is provided by how the two wires are embedded into the isolator. Some are round and twisted, some are flat and are one next to the other (not top over the other!). This is mostly defined by the length and width of the cable (equal area of a capacitor plates) the distance in between (the two wires) and the isolating material that gets in between. It is always about two of them: the red wire isolator and the black wire isolator.

Some designs separate the two cables (my DIY approach), to be of two different cables. Then they are apart from each other and not run in parallel as with some other designs.

In most cables, such a capacitance is of a few Pico farads (10-9) and it is a very small value in general, especially when refer to a voltage source as a SS, with very low output resistance and at audio frequencies (up to 100kHz).

  

Inductance: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductance

The Mutual inductance of two parallel straight wires is the more relevant to speaker cables, unless you have a long cable coiled on the floor. Again, if the two are separate (my DIY approach) the inductance is null. In some cables that would run the two wires in parallel as in flat cables, of the twisted pair approach, it is more of a concern. But even there, at most times the value of such Inductance is of micro Henry (10-6). Also a tiny value compared to the cross over coils and the speaker drivers. The value is too small to be of a concern with most SS amplification and the audio frequency range.

The ideal cable would be one with no Inductance and no Capacitance (also no resistance). Presence of such impedance of a speaker cable (or any cable) might work as a filter, depends of topology and values. No one wants that over a cable. Some of the amplifiers (tube and tube alike) are more susceptible to cable impedance and those would color the sound. At those cases a negligible thing might become noticeable.

A cable that would present a capacitance between two ends of a speaker cable (as seen by the amp.) is called Low Pass Filter (LPF) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-pass_filter

The higher the FR, the more of that energy is absolved by the capacitor. If a cable is presented with an inductance, it would be serial. That is also a LPF. (Ref. to the RLC model).

Summary:  

Cables with impedance are less good for a 1:1 transfer function as a speaker cable.

Separate cables as my DIY approach, would be the best to decrease any impedance to null.

Cables that are molded in a parallel structure, flat or in twisted pairs, may have an impedance factor. Try to avoid them as much as possible.

A cable's impedance (of significant values) would act as a LPF on an audio signal and will dim the highs vs. other FR.

From now on, please keep the impedance issue out of my cables solution. They do not apply.

@b4icu I have not had the chance to compare the FM Acoustics directly to the CH Precision using the same speakers. It’s a known fact that FM Acoustics produces very nice electronics, they have been around for many years as well. I’m quite sure that a full line up of FM Acoustics would perform very well indeed, and so there are still quite a few other manufacturers who produce very nice equipment at the highest level. The point is that they are not always available in the country of residence, so choices are not always as divers as in other (your) countries. What I usually do is use electronics from the same origin, so either a full set up of brand A, or a full set up of brand B. That’s the reason I currently play with C1/X1, D1/X1, L1/X1, M1 all made by CH Precision. (Only the bass towers use Gryphon dedicated amplifiers). Cables are either by CH Precision or Gryphon. Only the speaker cables are made by Kharma, and are also the oldest components in the line up. Usually a manufacturer will do its utmost to "tune" the components to each other, and often a combination of such equipment may perform better than a mixture of different brands. Another point to consider is that it also looks good, to me that’s important too. Speakers may be an exception, and are of a different brand. (Gryphon Pendragon). Sorry, this is a little off topic, but as you had asked for it ;)