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Please tutor me on some integrated amp basics.

I’ve recently purchased Magico A3 speakers and a VPI Classic 2 SE turntable with an Ortofon Black 2M moving magnet cartridge. I have a Marantz SA 8005 CD/SACD player to play the few (maybe a hundred or so) CD’s in my possession.
I’ve mostly vinyl albums and no streaming sources. I’m next going to upgrade my old amp/preamp purchased back in the late 70’s with a new, probably integrated, one and am starting to do some research.

Here’s where I need some tutoring. A lot has changed since the seventies with the advent of digital technology. As well as I need to learn more about amplification components in the high end of audio technology. I keep running across terms I don’t understand. I’ll give you a list and if someone would be kind enough to explain these basics I’d be obliged.

For instance I was reading about the Hegel H360 integrated amp that Magico’s Alon Wolf recommended for their A3’s. The review mentioned they were a Class A/B amp, another person commented Class A’s were better, and a third person said he didn’t care for Class D amps. What do these classes signify? 

A second question is about DACs. I generally understand their purpose of the DAC, converting a digital to an analog signal. However my only digital device, the Marantz SA 8005 already has a DAC, ostensibly of good quality. The turntable ’s Ortofon cartridge would not need to play through a DAC, I presume. Would I bypass the CD’s players DAC if I purchase the higher quality Hegel H360 integrated amp?. Or could I find an equivalent integrated amp without an integral DAC?

On the other side of the equation I understand the turntable’s cartridge cannot play through the Hegel without first going through a phono stage. My old Phase Linear 4000 preamp you just plugged the turntables RCA cables into the back of the preamp and you were done. What’s that about? Do they make equivalent integrated amps to the Hegel H360 with integrated phono stages already in place, so I can just plug my turntable in as I’ve been able to do before. The amps don’t seem to be well integrated at all if you have to add a pricey phono stage to make them work, and end up having an extra DAC. That’s just me whining.

Third question is what are monoblocks, how are they used, and what are their advantages to a system? They were used at one of my speaker auditions.

I figured out the answer to what amplifier damping was myself, so I’m sparing you that one, but what does the term impedance mean? I keep coming across that.

Thank goodness I don’t have to figure out the cabling nightmare yet. Thanks for any help.

Mike
skyscraper
ieales's avatar
ieales
1,201 posts
 
I'd be curious what you might like in the $1000 range, if anything
I could not presume to assume even in the $10 range. As mentioned, I use Transparent interconnects and have heard excellent sounding systems with Transparent, MIT, Monster and other manufacturers' speaker cables. I've also heard some bloody awful ones with those, AudioQuest, Nordost, etc. I've also heard systems with homebrew cables targeted to amp and speakers that were just gorgeous.

BUT, and it's a BUG BUT, I'd only voice an opinion after an in situ listen.

I have no knowledge of the A3s, the amp, the room, the table / cartridge and, most of all, you.

Cost is no arbiter of performance and many designs are just plain bad from an electrical perspective of getting an undistorted signal to the loudspeaker. They may improve some aspects at the expense of others. Rarely, if ever, will anything be exactly right everywhere on a particular system.

Some designs may work exceedingly well with a small subset of amplifiers and speakers, failing miserably on others.

Many years ago, I happened on chap receiving a 'lesson' on why the item on demo was 'superior.' He seemed a tad bewildered and off-handedly asked what I thought.
I said "I don't think it sounds at all like it was recorded."
Annoyed, the salesperson asked snottily "And just how would you know?"
"Well, it just so happens I recorded and mixed it" and then showed him my driver's license to counter his expletive.

The chap then asked what I would recommend and I told him I would have to learn his peccadilloes and hear his present system before I could possibly even comment.


skyscraper OP
831 posts
 
Thanks for your explanation ieales. Didn’t mean to put you on the spot if I did. One thousand dollars is only my self imposed budgetary limit. If considerably less expensive cable sounds best in my system, that’s all to the good. If only a $2000 cable cuts the mustard, then I won’t be cutting the mustard.

If the cable is system dependent I only need to narrow down the field somehow to find some speaker cables to try out to discover what works best with my system. Then I can attempt to locate someone who not only carries them, but is willing to provide a loaner. That should be no mean feat in and of itself. So far, the only loaners available locally are Audioquest The sole high end local dealer carrying cables locally will special order the the Rocket 88’s and another for me to try out when my Magicos arrive. I also have some Belden cable some kind soul has provided me to be my baseline.

If for example you’ve heard MIT’s and Transparent’s sounding good in someone’s system, and they’re a reputable well made brand, I’ll try to locate and demo them. That goes for any other you or anybody might suggest "that are (not) just plain bad from an electrical perspective of getting an undistorted signal to the loudspeaker". I have no knowledge on how to know determine that at all.

The Magicos cannot be bi-wired I found out, but sadly that’s about the total extent of my knowledge on what cable designs to avoid. A guy on another thread recommended I try 0 gauge wire of some sort for DIY cables. Who knows about that home brew design? Maybe you, not me. He also suggested trying out that design with automotive jumper cables which might be fun.

I can’t track down all the hundred cables that I have probably have on on my list by now. Even researching that many and looking for reviews would be enough to land me in a nut house. There must be some way to narrow the field to affordable contenders from reputable manufacturers.

I’ve heard the Transparent brand mentioned a few times so I’ll try to locate a pair to try. I am a little concerned only their close to the bottom of the line cables come in for around my upper price range. Same as with those Inna suggests.

Anyway I’m rambling again.

Glupson I saw not only the U.S. and Netherlands on a Audioquest box today, but Hong Kong as well. I should have been a detective.

Mike




jackd
1,071 posts
 
Mike

Two suggestions:

If you haven't talk to Mike Bovaird of Suncoast Audio in Sarasota.  He is a stocking dealer of both the A3 and your Luxman and has probably tried multiple brands of cable with them as he carries about a half dozen brands. 

Second, contact member grannyring about the Dueland IC's and SC's he makes and sells.  After going through multiple brands in my Main system I have settled on the Dueland Balanced IC's and 12 Gauge speaker cable.  Should get you comfortably under your budget or you can save a few dollars more and twist/strip the speaker cable yourself after buying it from Parts Connexion.  Adding connectors on the speaker cables is an option.
skyscraper OP
831 posts
 
Jack. I’ll give Mike a call, probably tomorrow. Thanks for a good tip. I just looked up where Sarasota is in Florida. I’m planning on driving down near Orlando soon to visit family. SunCoast Audio is almost close enough for a side trip for some demos. What’s an extra 2-1/2 hours after you’ve already driven fifteen. I’m going to check out his website right now if he has one.

Mike
jackd
1,071 posts
 
Worth the trip as he stocks Magico, Verity, Gryphon speakers among others and just set up a new pair of Avantgarde Duo XD’s in the Main Room.

Might want to check this out too. Might be worth another trip in February.

https://floridaaudioexpo.com/
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