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MidFi multi channel solution needed for HT.

Due to financial position currently, I can't purchase what I want, so to fill the short term need ... I need a multi channel solution below a $4000 threshold. My speakers demand plenty of high quality power to perform at their best, so I am looking to fill that void that was once filled with high end 2 ch separates. If anyone could comment on their own experiences with any of the below solutions I would appreciate it.

Looking for anyone to comment or suggest on their experience they addressed themselves or have helped others reach a well thought out conclusion on same topic. I am looking for a best quality AVR or separate solution. Not necessarily one with the most features. Budget is $2k-4k

Looking for suggestions from those that have had experience with high quality AVRs or midfi AV separates. Entertaining the following products / companies, not in any particular order.

Considering the following AVRs

NAD t777v3 - great sound has Dirac, but unclear if replacement is coming shortly
Arcam -- buggy and unreliable track record but great sound
Cambridge cx200 - no RC to speak of other than REW 3rd party
Lexicon RV9 - unproven track record since Harman acquired them.
Rotel RMB1580 - expensive
Anthem MRX720 - rumor has it that ARC is 2nd to Dirac.

Not considering any other AVRs as a powered solution. But, I am considering a possible use of denon or marantz avr as a preamp as a midfi separates setup, but not sure how the sound quality would compare to the above AVRs.

1. Outlaw 976 with 5-7ch amp ( ati, monoprice, outlaw, rotel or other midfi amp)
2. Midfi AVR such as ( denon 6x00 or Marantz701x ) with separate amplifiers

My biggest stumbling block in the decision process is whether or not the Outlaw 976 will be 'better' than any of the listed solutions on the preamp and processing end of things. And I am hesitant to jump on board with the Outlaw 976, due to major omissions ( no upgrade path, no network or usb connections ). And the tech support is questionable. But if it sounds hands above the rest, I would gladly consider it.

Looking forward to hearing what others can suggest.

current components:

b&w cdm9nt with matching center ch
Kimber Kable 8tc
Kimber Kable ICs



Thx in advance.
lightfighter2018
lightfighter2018's avatar
lightfighter2018 OP
87 posts
 
Auxinput.

Thanks!

I can do DIY for sure. If I am willing to spend ’more’ how much more would I need to spend to get more performance our of a pc? If so, which one do you suggest? Or is the suggestion you made with the suggested mod a sweet spot for dollars spent vs performance for a mid-fi system?

Will order the fuses you suggest. Should I order more than one fuse? Is this something that I need to replace ’only’ if it blows out like any other fuse? Or is there a maintenance schedule I should be aware of. Do these fuses operate in a either go or no-go status or is there degradation over time?

Will my plug ’end’ choice be dictated by which amplifier I end up with? Or will either be similar?

Do you suggest I replace the IEC female plug that is mounted on the 7704? If so, with which one?

Thx in advance.


caphill
680 posts
 
+1 on the Rotel power amp. You should get the Rotel RMB-1585 five-channel amp. It retails for $3k new but try to look for a used one that can be had for around $2k ish. The RMB-1585 is a great amp for the money. The RMB-1585 is class AB design amp.
However, do not get the Rotel RMB-1575 amp, this is class D design. Get the RMB-1585, which is class AB. The Rotel will sound good on your B&W. They always pair really well together.

The Parasound Halo A51 or A52 five-channel amps are another great amps and will have better details than the Rotel RMB-1585. IMO the Halo A51 is a better amp than the Rotel RMB-1585 overall but it costs a bit more than the Rotel RMB-1585. Even a used Halo A51 will cost you a bit more than a used Rotel RMB-1585.
The Halo A51 originally retails for $4500 new.
auxinput
2,921 posts
 
That Audioquest NRG-2 is about the minimum I would suggest for a DIY project.  The Audioquest NRG-4 and NRG-5 cables are much better.  The NRG-5 actually has the best copper but it is 14awg.  The NRG-4 still has very excellent copper, but it is larger at 13awg.  All of my cables are Audioquest NRG-4 that have been chopped and terminated with Furutech FI-28 rhodium plugs.  Each one is pretty much a $400-450 investment, but I think it will outperform many other manufactured cables that are a lot more.  The NRG-4 and NRG-5 cables are more expensive, of course.
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You don't necessarily have to replace the IEC inlet on the Marantz.  You can if you want, but you really have to look inside to see what the stock inlet is like.  Sometimes they are attached/mounted directly on a circuit board and you cannot do anything with this.  If it's a standard inlet with wires attached via clips, you can replace it.  Furutech makes several IEC inlets and some have a built-in filter.  I would recommend the rhodium, as gold-plated will increase the warmth and roll off the highs on the Marantz.

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The fuse is something that you only have to buy if it blows.  It does not require any sort of maintenance.  However, stock fuses are not always the best sounding.  I recommended the Hi-Fi Tuning silver fuses because the Marantz is so warm and needs all the "silver" you can get to increase the speed and resolution.  Of course, if you want to see how the Marantz sounds "stock", that's totally fine.  You might feel just fine with the sound.  If you do get the fuse, be aware that it has a 12-14 day burn in (you need to keep the Marantz turned on 24 hours a day for about 2 weeks).  The fuse will go through all sorts of changes, from sounding bright/harsh in the midrange to very warm/mushy.

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I will also agree with caphill that you should NOT get any Rotel amp that is a Class D circuit.  They will sound weak and anemic and will not have bass impact or be engaging at all!  The normal Rotel Class AB amps are very excellent, however.
auxinput
2,921 posts
 
Oh, if you got a different HT Processor, you might consider how the synergy would work with the amp, but the Maratnz is so warm sounding that I think you really need silver/rhodium on the IEC plug (probably silver is best).
lightfighter2018's avatar
lightfighter2018 OP
87 posts
 
Caphill.
Auxinput.

Thanks.

Will order the silver fuses and the power cable ends you suggest. I may be able to get the nrg4 or 5 steeply discounted if Magnolia carries them. Not sure if Magnolia carries entire Audio Quest line. Will have to make a phone call this week.

Speaking of Class D vs Class A/AB ... do either of you - or anyone else for that matter still feel that class D in general all sound anemic compared to A/AB?

I have heard they have gotten better, but not sure class D has climbed the hurdle of having the ’oomph’ that A and AB are so well known.

Thanks.

Are audio quest IC cables decent? If so - which ones at minimum should I take a look at?

Suggestions on USB, Cat6, Toslink, SPDIF cables?
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