No one actually knows how to lculate what speaker cable they need

Mr. glupson

"Open-minded, ready to accept different views when presented in a reasonable fashion, willing to improve, not stubborn, not arrogant "my way or no way", etc. In short, great bright people. Hardly lizards".

I thing different.

Most people on this thread (many silent), are in this hobby from love their audio hobby. You know that the upgrade bug is very active, from the obvious reason that all want a better sound. If not now, for sure later. This thread, and threads like this should serve that well. I would expect them to listen to new ideas, to try (for a reasonable expense of under $100) and to make up their mind, if they were skeptic.

For those I called "naggers", they had a different agenda. They do not love the audio as we do. They love the income from it. This thread is a serious threat on their income and industry. It is hard to accept and admit that for so long they had no idea what they are doing, at a time they were telling the most convincing urban myths and charging for that an arm and a leg. They are to lose trust and face toward their clients. What can they say to justify an entire industry that was so ignorant for so long, telling lies and myths while their cables were far from what they should be.

At this point of the thread, their reaction is well aligned with that behavior along the rest of this thread.

 

 

"The resistance of #14 vs. #0 is remaining relative, no matter of length. It will apply to any length from 1 m to 1 km or 1 cm."

Perhaps, but at REAL WORLD lengths, the relative difference is 
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Mr. stevcham

Mathematics and electronics shows there is significance.

A big one.

Those who shared their DIY 0 AWG vs. previous 14 AWG prove that significance, in some fantastic descriptions. 

This is the real world.

Mister b4icu...your snarky and condescending response is weird since I was simply responding to YOUR question, but based on your posts I suppose I really shouldn't be surprised. Bill Low on the other hand was helpful and respectful during our conversation, and the logical and well thought out descriptions of what these cables do and why they do it are succinct and relevant, and proven by their performance in my system. 

Regarding your lead-out termination and the issue of going from 0 awg to a smaller gauge wire - why bother with crimping, soldering, or a transition of any type to a different wire?  You could simply strip the insulation from the final 6 to 10 inches of the large wire, and then remove wire material from the perimeter of the bundle until you have the desired lead-out size that can then be covered with heat shrink for isolation and attached to a typical audio connector (banana or spade).  This would provide a direct connection from one end of the cable to the other without the need for transitions but still allowing the benefit of the larger 0 awg wire throughout most of the cable run.   BTW, Furez offers some copper connectors that have very large wire openings to keep the lead-out as large as possible.

Some of the large-sized (0 awg) wire I am looking at uses multiple bundles of wire such as in the linked example below.  If you count bundles, you can easily leave the same number of wire bundles for the lead-out resulting in a consistent lead-out size from cable to cable.  Looking at the linked wire picture, it appears one could simply remove the outer wire bundles and use the smaller inner bundles as the lead-out.

https://www.amazon.com/Gauge-Premium-Welding-Cable-Black/dp/B07CZ4VKG3/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1541181672&sr=1-12&keywords=1%2F0+Gauge+Premium+Extra+Flexible+Welding+Cable+600+VOLT+prime