2. home-theater
  3. 138808-118418

Home Theater Receiver recommendations for B&W 803S?

Hi!  I'm on the hunt for a new receiver, since I recently upgraded my main speakers, and I'd like to have one that also passes 4K signal.  

My current setup:

Denon AVR-4308CI
Left & Right: B&W 803S
Center: B&W HTM2
Surrounds B&W 301
Sub: Energy 8"

I recently upgraded to the 803S's on the left/right; replacing my original Nautilus 805's.  Now I need to upgrade the rest of the system!

I think the first step is the receiver, especially since I'd like to be able to pass 4K to my projector.   Then will likely upgrade the sub (Am considering the Monoprice Monolith, 10" or 12"...). And I'm also on the hunt for a HTM3S, to better match the 803S's. 

I'd love to know what Receiver recommendations folks have that will pair nicely with these speakers.  Ideally under ~$2K  - and I really don't care much about other bells & whistles (multi zone, bluetooth, wifi, whatever). I'd rather the money go into the best possible D/A, amplifiers, etc... and leave other tech gadgetry to other boxes.

Appreciate any/all input! Thanks!  :)






awilder
auxinput
2,920 posts
 
I like Audioquest cables because they are one of the only cables that is truly solid-core.  Kimber interconnect cables are not bad either.   Wire World is also an excellent cable (not quite solid core, but close because the individual conductor wires are arranged in a row instead of a bundle).
----
For Y connectors, Audio Sensiblity is the best one I have seen.  But they are all pretty poor quality.  Your best bet is to get sombody to take a set of Audioquest or Kimber XLR interconnects and desolder the ends.  then combine two cables and solder both cables into one XLR connector.
auxinput
2,920 posts
 
awilder - do you have a digital multimeter or a continuity tester?
awilder OP
41 posts
 
@auxinput - I do.

And haven't received the fuse just yet...will report back once I have a chance to drop it in. I've also been talking with James at GIK Acoustics... working on a plan to add some absorption panels and bass traps. I'm optimistic that's going to make a big different in the spatial issues.  Onward!
auxinput
2,920 posts
 
Ok, a tip on the fuse install.  Since you have a multimeter, you can test the fuse clip points.  Remove the fuse.  In most cases, one of the fuse clips will connect directly to one of the blades on the IEC inlet (usually the hot A/C conductor).  The other fuse clip will connect into the transformer.  When installing the fuse, you want the arrow on the fuse to point AWAY from the fuse clip that connects directly to the IEC plug.  If both fuse clips appear to connect to IEC blades, then you need to figure out which of the points connects to the HOT A/C blade.  You can google IEC to figure this out.
awilder OP
41 posts
 
I had heard the fuses were directional, and was wondering about that, since the circuit board isn't marked. Good tip - thanks!
More to discover