Wierd issue with a DIY cable for a REL G2 sub


I built a cable for my uncle for his REL G2. He wanted a cable shorter than the 35' one that came with the REL. It is causing a thermal issue with the McCormack amp that is being used for the high level source. He says it plays fine for about 5 minutes, then thermals and shuts off. The OE REL cable does not have the problem (obviously). Here is the breakdown of the cable:

Neutrik NLT4FX speakon connector (I used this so I could have a solder connection instead of compression, also the aluminum casing is just nicer)

15' Belden 5102UP 14ga speaker cable (using 3 of the 4 conductors)

14ga spade terminals

Connections at the speakon end are soldered with WBT silver bearing solder and connected to the same lugs in the speakon as the original cable.

At the spade end, the connections are crimped, then soldered with WBT silver solder as well.

All 3 wires for the cable show continuity to the appropriate point on the speakon, and show no continuity to each other.

All 3 connections read .3 ohms of impedance between the spade and the speakon. As well as .3 ohms when testing between the input and output of the speakon.

I'm stumped. The OE cable didn't look like it had any kind of special circuit attached with it so I assumed it is just copper wire.

At this point I am thinking voodoo devil magic.

Anyone have any thoughts or input?
diamondjoequimby
Al is right, the 14ga is way overkill and the 4th conductor in the Belden cable is simply not needed. Nor is the 4th pole on the SpeakOn. However it is tough to fine decent 3 conductor cable (or 4 for that matter) by the foot. And seeing as I didn't need a 500' spool, I went with the readily available 14ga Belden 5000 series 4 conductor.

And yes, this is a favor for a family member. When I saw that he was looking at spending between $150-$600 for a sub cable using what I knew to be a $4 SpeakOn, I offered to make one for him for a fraction of the cost.

I made all the cables (interconnect, XLR, and speaker) for my own system and never ran into issues before, so after looking at the stock REL one, this seemed like a piece of cake!

If it is a balanced output amp and the REL uses the black as a return to the amp, Al's insight seems like the likely culprit. I'm waiting to hear back from my uncle, but hopefully this will do the trick.

I'll report back with what I find out.
Please forgive my intrusion to this discussion with an unrelated REL subwoofer issue but the thermal shut down issue caught my attention. My REL Strata II sub has recently developed a hum and I do not know why. My NAD C375BEE has recently been shutting down via the protection circuit even with the REL powered off. Might the hum issue with the REL be able to cause this problem with my amplifier? Thank you, Joseph
Please forgive my intrusion to this discussion with an unrelated REL subwoofer issue but the thermal shut down issue caught my attention. My REL Strata II sub has recently developed a hum and I do not know why. My NAD C375BEE has recently been shutting down via the protection circuit even with the REL powered off. Might the hum issue with the REL be able to cause this problem with my amplifier? Thank you, Joseph
No problem re the intrusion, Joseph. I've responded in your other current thread. I suspect that the hum problem and the amp problem are unrelated, but as others have suggested in that thread you'll need to determine if the amp problem remains when the sub is disconnected.

Regards,
-- Al
I've conformed it is a DNA 500. Also read in the manual for the REL that with a differential amp (like the DNA 500) the 3rd conductor is supposed to connect to chassis ground. My uncle also confirmed that the side of the amp the ground connecter is connected to gets noticeably warmer than the other channel, and he's tried it on both with the OE cable. I'll post when he tries out my cable again and confirm operation, but I think the problem may be licked. Thanks for the input fellas!