Being able to get rid of the speaker-level crossover parts is one of the two reasons for bi-amping (doing so has at least the potential for producing a worthwhile improvement in the sound quality of a loudspeaker). The other is, as Roger Modjeski said above, to separate the low frequencies from the mids/highs in the amplification (giving each it’s own amp, of course), thereby decreasing the potential for the creation of IM distortion in the amp(s).
Bi-amping need not be complicated and difficult. And, it can be cheaper than replacing stock speaker-level x/o parts with those pricey boutique ones. Not only that, you can use a brute-force amp on the woofers if you want, with a nice tube amp for the mids and highs. I first bi-amped with a pair of Magneplanar Tympani T-I loudspeakers in 1973, using the ARC passive x/o designed specifically for that task. Nelson Pass makes a great electronic x/o, but it’s not cheap. Fortunately he also makes (or made, it has just been discontinued) a modestly-priced 2-way x/o, the First Watt B4. It provides 1st/2nd/3rd/and 4th order filters in 25Hz increments from 25Hz to 3200Hz. All discrete (no opamps, no ic’s), retail price $1500. Reno Hi-Fi may have one left, I don’t know. For DIY’ers, it will soon be available as a kit
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Thank you bdp. I am in total agreement. We may have to do some education on this. There are many crossovers out there. My Beveridge RM-3 shows up now and then for a few hundred dollars.I have recently made some 2nd and 4th order Linkwitz-Riley PC boards that use a quad op amp. I will supply a TL-074 but any quad opamp will work.