I typed a long follow-up but lost it somehow. Will try and keep this short.
Next is to stop sound bouncing uncontrolled between the side walls. Absorption panels built similar to the ceiling absorber are good at the first reflection points. The OC703 is supplied in sheets of 2ft by 4ft so this is a good size to build them and cover in a pretty fabric that the wife chooses. 2 panels per side usually do it.
The third axis is between front and back wall. Dispersion is good here with some smaller absorption panels used to fine tune the room.
Then the bass. All rooms NEED bass traps and lots. Can't overdo bass traps so don't be shy. BUT they must be proper basstraps. Google DIY superchunk bass traps. Anything less is a waste. Somebody posted links to some silly foam things that can not possibly absorb the long wavelengths we are dealing with. Bass traps being broadband absorbers will also absorb higher freq. possibly making the room too dead so plastic sheeting or similar can be used to cover the outside of the traps which will reflect the upper freq. but still work for the bass.
viber6 mentioned this being an art which it is not. Measurement is your friend and free downloads like Holm Impulse or REW will provide graphic results of treatment by way of cumulative spectral decay known as waterfall plots. It is possible to measure the room before and after treatment and overlay the plots and see the results. I use Omnimic from Parts Express.
While I do not know the size of your room the aim here is to achieve aT60 across all freq. The CSD's will show which freq. require more or less absorption. This is the time it takes for sound to decay by 60dB. Just science and not black art.
Bass freq. do the most damage when thundering around the room. Some reflected bass will combine constructively or destructively producing peaks and nulls, the nulls being the worst. Those are bass notes missing and can't be EQ'd back. Not even by a Rane :) The peaks and their harmonics can be tamed by EQ BUT the Rane can't control the overlong decay.
Bass builds up in corners so that is where to place the traps. The front wall's 2 corners where it meets the side walls is a good place to start. Run them vertically from floor to ceiling. But any corners work. In addition to the front 2 try one running horizontally on the back wall where it meets the ceiling.
Dear WC I urge you to give this careful thought. If you are pressed for time and do not wish to build or measure get advice from a pro. Maybe one in your area or contact this fella.
http://ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html
Please read some or all of this because no amount of cables or component change will bring more to the party. The transformation really does need to be experienced to understand the huge amount of fun, detail and decongestion.Winer also has a forum where you can read about results from people who have seen, or is it heard the light.
Regards and enjoy the Lampi. I heard Fikus' Gen 4 way back and thought it was great. My friend whose ears I trust has just changed to a Denafrips Terminator from a Chord Dave.
Next is to stop sound bouncing uncontrolled between the side walls. Absorption panels built similar to the ceiling absorber are good at the first reflection points. The OC703 is supplied in sheets of 2ft by 4ft so this is a good size to build them and cover in a pretty fabric that the wife chooses. 2 panels per side usually do it.
The third axis is between front and back wall. Dispersion is good here with some smaller absorption panels used to fine tune the room.
Then the bass. All rooms NEED bass traps and lots. Can't overdo bass traps so don't be shy. BUT they must be proper basstraps. Google DIY superchunk bass traps. Anything less is a waste. Somebody posted links to some silly foam things that can not possibly absorb the long wavelengths we are dealing with. Bass traps being broadband absorbers will also absorb higher freq. possibly making the room too dead so plastic sheeting or similar can be used to cover the outside of the traps which will reflect the upper freq. but still work for the bass.
viber6 mentioned this being an art which it is not. Measurement is your friend and free downloads like Holm Impulse or REW will provide graphic results of treatment by way of cumulative spectral decay known as waterfall plots. It is possible to measure the room before and after treatment and overlay the plots and see the results. I use Omnimic from Parts Express.
While I do not know the size of your room the aim here is to achieve aT60 across all freq. The CSD's will show which freq. require more or less absorption. This is the time it takes for sound to decay by 60dB. Just science and not black art.
Bass freq. do the most damage when thundering around the room. Some reflected bass will combine constructively or destructively producing peaks and nulls, the nulls being the worst. Those are bass notes missing and can't be EQ'd back. Not even by a Rane :) The peaks and their harmonics can be tamed by EQ BUT the Rane can't control the overlong decay.
Bass builds up in corners so that is where to place the traps. The front wall's 2 corners where it meets the side walls is a good place to start. Run them vertically from floor to ceiling. But any corners work. In addition to the front 2 try one running horizontally on the back wall where it meets the ceiling.
Dear WC I urge you to give this careful thought. If you are pressed for time and do not wish to build or measure get advice from a pro. Maybe one in your area or contact this fella.
http://ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html
Please read some or all of this because no amount of cables or component change will bring more to the party. The transformation really does need to be experienced to understand the huge amount of fun, detail and decongestion.Winer also has a forum where you can read about results from people who have seen, or is it heard the light.
Regards and enjoy the Lampi. I heard Fikus' Gen 4 way back and thought it was great. My friend whose ears I trust has just changed to a Denafrips Terminator from a Chord Dave.