This question is aimed to TRUE Elec Engineers, not fuse or wire directionality believers.



Has any of you ACTUALLY worked with and recommend a SSR which does not introduce any audible distortion on the speaker line and which can operate with a large range of trigger voltages (12 - 48 VDC, may need to have on board voltage regulator for this range).  I am building a speaker DC protector and do not want to use electro mechanical relays becoz of DC arcing and contact erosion issues.  It needs to be capable of switching up to 15 amps at about 100 volts.

Only TRUE engineers reply please.

Thanks

128x128cakyol
ssg308,

Crydom relays are typically for motor control apps.  They will not have a low enuf switching resistance and linear frequency response for an audio signal.
Ouch!  Sorry to hear that, Rodman. 

I'm very surprised, though.  Here is a datasheet for an Energizer alkaline "C" battery, indicating a **minimum** nominal internal resistance of 0.15 ohms.  Even if we make the extremely unrealistic assumption that it could maintain an output of 1.5 volts into a direct short, and even if we make the extremely unrealistic assumption that the DC resistance of the tweeter is zero, and even if the capacitor offered zero resistance to the resulting current, the battery could only provide (1.5^2)/0.15 = 15 watts, which in that situation would all be dissipated in its internal resistance.  While datasheets I've seen over the years for various tweeters all show power handling capabilities of at least several tens of watts.

Regards,
-- Al
Battery anatomy/specs aside, the driver was working, prior to being connected to a 33uF, non-polarized film cap and a C cell. It was reading 6 Ohms(correct nominal, according to the tweeter’s label), before it opened up. Imagine what(perhaps) 80VDC, would do. The tweeter had been sitting on a shelf, for the past 20+ years. My son blew the other, clipping his amp into a pair of Quart One bookshelf speakers, back when he was a kid. Not a big loss(at all), but- thanks for your condolences .
the driver was working, prior to being connected to a 33uF, non-polarized film cap and a C cell. It was reading 6 Ohms(correct nominal, according to the tweeter’s label), before it opened up.
1.5V across 6 Ohms = 0.25A or 0.325 Watt

Back EMF?
or
Is the capacitor fully discharged before connect to the tweeter?

1.5V across 6 Ohms = 0.25A or 0.325 Watt
Correction:
1.5V across 6 ohms = 0.25A or 0.375 Watt

I think the current is pass through the tweeter voice coil and charge up the cap, if there's 80VDC the voice coil will blow in seconds.