Looking for a mid-priced TT to install my 2M Black Cart

Bsmg

Watch these two videos, this table is a Denon DP80 modified into a GrooveMaster Vintage Direct DP80 Professional.  

https://www.facebook.com/170947997876/videos/pcb.10154978720007877/10154978712417877/?type=3&the...

https://www.facebook.com/170947997876/videos/pcb.10154978720007877/10154978713202877/?type=3&the...
The Tachometer on the Turntable is a Roadrunner - double checked by a Time line - there is no belt drive that can do this - especially not a single belt one.  

Good Listening

Peter 

Well, guys, I’m not cutting new vinyl on my turntable; comparing how records are made to the pros and cons of belt vs dd is a strawman argument. I understand that dd is higher torque and more stable speed but higher torque is not necessarily needed to spin a single record; a belt drive table will assume correct speed quicker than you can lift the tonearm and put the stylus on the record. Furthermore, if your platter has enough mass, its own inertia helps keep it running at the same speed. DJ’s use direct drive tables because they can physically turn the platter backward, which can’t be done successfully with belt drive. If you go to mfgr websites like VPI or Oracle or Pro Ject or Music Hall or ClearAudio, you will note the lack of dd tables. Even on the Japanese sites MOST of their tables are belt drive. This whole subject is similar to the perennial argument about whether tubes or solid state sound better; most ss amps have a distortion factor of something like .0001% whereas tube amps distortion figures are typically "less than 1%." A difference of several orders of magnitude. My speedbox accuracy of .001% is a similar order of magnitude difference (.001% of 33.3RPM is a very small fraction of a revolution per minute). I will stick with vacuum tubes and belt drive and there is nothing that will make me change. To address the question of what made me "switch" to belt drive, I've never had a dd table; never wanted one. Plus, when you flip the switch on your table and nothing happens, you are faced with a substantial repair cost; if that happens to me, it is likely I am looking at maybe $25 to be back in business. Also, back into the initial parts of this thread, someone suggest the OP get a different tonearm; the Debut table he has cannot accept a different arm; there is no provision for that on that model.

DJ’s use direct drive tables because they can physically turn the platter backward, which can’t be done successfully with belt drive.

None of the DJs turn the platter backwards, they turn the record on the slipmat (felt mat) any directiron if needed (it's called back cueing), but the platter under the slipmat always turning forward, not backward. And a high torque is needed to cartch the right speed immediately. 

Not all of the Direct Drive have such a high torque like Technics, for example my Luxman PD-444 has much lower torque. 

I will take your word for that.

There is one Idler Drive that is so attractive: Restored Hammertone Garrard 301 from Audio Grail, especially in Artisan Fidelity plinth 

Aesthetically to die for (imo)

In my opinion this is a state of the art in terms of design, the only problem is the price which is higher than most expensive direct drive. I've never tried this turntable, but i wish to have one in collection.