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Ingress Audio Engineering

I recently discovered the benefits of isolation. Don't know how many of you are familiar with Barry Diament's  recommendations for his hip joints. The recommendation for the economical DIY set up worked well for my stereo; (lightly inflated bike innertubes, wooden egg holders supporting stainless steel balls).

http://www.barrydiamentaudio.com/vibration.htm

A month ago I bought Isoacoustic Oreo's. 3 per component (weight appropriate) and was very impressed...at first. After several days of settling my music sounded dull and lifeless. I reread the optimal weight recommendations, re-calibrated weight limits with temporary improvements. To my disappointment I realized the Oreo's could only be compressed (especially after the suction seal was formed between them and the component or platform the component sat on). Sure they rocked in all directions, but they didn't glide in all directions. Only horizontal isolation was taking place so I coupled the Oreo's with Barry's economic hip joints which has greatly improved the SQ. I'm loving it but I still feel there's room for improvement. Mainly because I own the Hfiman HE-6SE HP's and I run them through my power amp's speaker taps. So I want Barry's upgraded hip joints under my amp. I'm interested in Ingress Audio's vibration isolation rollerblocks.

http://www.ingress-engineering.ca/products-and-services.php
I've looked up info about their level 2's and 3's but specifics on their differences aren't given. I know Barry says the blocks should be machined smooth to a certain degree. I left a message with Ingress, but I'm impatient and wondering if perhaps the level 2's aren't as smooth as the 3's. The smoother, the greater the improvements. My question is does anyone know the differences between their Level 2 and Level 3 rollerblocks?
mewsickbuff
david_ten
5,480 posts
 
Great posts above, especially @bdp24 ’s which covers it all.

I’ve been using the Level 3s (v1 and v2) under all of my components: from the front-front end of my computer audio gear through to my DAC.

I originally ordered the Level 3s and Level 2s (both version 1s) for comparative purposes and it was clear that the Level 3s were the way to go.

BTW, I’m using my original sets of Level 2s under my linear power supplies, a passive power conditioner, etc. HOWEVER, the current Level 2s look like the original Level 3s and are likely far superior to the original 2s.

I still recommend going with the current version of Level 3s.
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geoffkait's avatar
geoffkait
23,365 posts
 
There are many ways to skin a cat. I use those heavy one inch high glass candle holders for the base and either Super Balls or some appropriately sized ball made of glass, maybe a glass marble, or other very hard material for the balls. Super Balls are 1” diameter type sold in bubble gum machines. I Even if the surface of the base is not concave roller bearings will work for the horizontal plane. Hardness and smoothness of surfaces, I.e. low friction, are the critical factors. The best isolation is when there is great ease of motion. By the way cryo’d, heat tempered high-carbon steel is much harder than the best aluminum. Like my springs.
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mewsickbuff OP
237 posts
 
Thanks a lot everyone for your input. I've ordered 4 sets of the level 3's.

Barry said, "In fact, outside of digital gear, they may make the largest difference when placed under speakers.  When I first tried them under my Magnepans I said that by comparison, having the speakers on the floor was to have them “bound and gagged.”

Which components did you guys isolate 1st, 2nd, etc.?
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