Ingress Audio Engineering


I recently discovered the benefits of isolation. Don't know how many of you are familiar with Barry Diament's  recommendations for his hip joints. The recommendation for the economical DIY set up worked well for my stereo; (lightly inflated bike innertubes, wooden egg holders supporting stainless steel balls).

http://www.barrydiamentaudio.com/vibration.htm

A month ago I bought Isoacoustic Oreo's. 3 per component (weight appropriate) and was very impressed...at first. After several days of settling my music sounded dull and lifeless. I reread the optimal weight recommendations, re-calibrated weight limits with temporary improvements. To my disappointment I realized the Oreo's could only be compressed (especially after the suction seal was formed between them and the component or platform the component sat on). Sure they rocked in all directions, but they didn't glide in all directions. Only horizontal isolation was taking place so I coupled the Oreo's with Barry's economic hip joints which has greatly improved the SQ. I'm loving it but I still feel there's room for improvement. Mainly because I own the Hfiman HE-6SE HP's and I run them through my power amp's speaker taps. So I want Barry's upgraded hip joints under my amp. I'm interested in Ingress Audio's vibration isolation rollerblocks.

http://www.ingress-engineering.ca/products-and-services.php
I've looked up info about their level 2's and 3's but specifics on their differences aren't given. I know Barry says the blocks should be machined smooth to a certain degree. I left a message with Ingress, but I'm impatient and wondering if perhaps the level 2's aren't as smooth as the 3's. The smoother, the greater the improvements. My question is does anyone know the differences between their Level 2 and Level 3 rollerblocks?
mewsickbuff
Somebody hasn’t been paying very close attention. I’ve already shared the secrets for the springs I use. Wake up and smell the coffee! ☕️

@uberwaltz and @elizabeth, the idea I came up with when I first saw Barry Diament's big Maggies on roller bearings, but transferred to my carpeted room and the pair of Tympani IVa I thought I would be able to shoehorn into that room (alas, that was not possible :-( ) was this:

Make a base plate out of Maple/Baltic Birch plywood/etc., and install three spikes in it to raise it off the carpet enough to make it stable (three is inherently stable, four a chore), and level it. Mount the Maggie feet/stand/base plate onto a similar piece of wood (may as well make it the same size as the one on the floor), and place the wood-mounted Maggie on top of the base plate/bottom piece of wood, with a trio of roller bearings between the two boards.

The same can be done with Geoff's springs, or even with both, using another board. Wood is cheap!

I wouldn’t be quite so loose with how to employ my springs, no offense.

No offence taken, perhaps because I don't know what you meant ;-) .

Say, are ya gonna tell us why the roller bearing is no good for isolating a turntable? I haven't come up with anything better than the spinning moving mass of the platter pulling the ball bearings in the direction it is spinning (clockwise).

@geoffkait got snapshots of those springs. Sure would be nice if we could post pics. Things would be so much easier to comprehend.  I used the bike inner tubes under maple plywood bases for about a year. Once the component was placed on top of Barry's "economic" hip joints, some of the platforms were well balanced while others were a little lop-sided due to heavier innards more toward a side, the front or the back. Sliding off? For me none ever did.