Bi amp pros out there I could use some help! First time Bi Amping...


Just picked up a BAT vk 200 for the bass and using my Pass Aleph 5 for the mids and tweets. Ive never played around with bi amping so I apologize in advance for any lame questions My speakers are Dunlavy SC3's original 5.5 nominal load. The pass is 90 wpc at 4 Ohm and the BAT is 200 wpc at 4 ohm so Im guessing around 75 wpc off the Pass Amp and 150 plus with the Bat Amp. My pre amp is a Aleph P and Im running the Single ended through a XLR adaptor (cause the Bat is Balanced inputs only) and the pass Aleph 5 off the XLR outputs of the pre and inputs of the Pass amp. The PASS Pre Amp manual says there is a 6db differential between the RCA and XLR outputs  two and both can be driven at the same time. So the RCA is 9db and the XLR is 15 db. Gain is within 2db on each amp. So whats the best way to do this? Get a custom XLR "Y" connector and drive both off the XLR output of the pre? Or is there a way better way to get the magic? This is past my "WORLD" Map and experience so Id thought Id ask for the smart people for advice. 

Thank you in advance!

-ALLGOOD
128x128haywood310

@sleepwalker65, I’m all for bi-amping, but haywood310 needed to be alerted to the fact that to do it correctly is much more involved than merely putting an external x/o and a second amp onto a pair of loudspeakers. The internal speaker-level x/o must be discarded, the outboard line-level x/o doing all the filtering. And that will NOT work if any of the drivers used in the speaker required any compensation network filtering to sound as the designer intended them to.

As I said above, Magnepan used to make their speakers so as to be easily bi-amped, and endorsed doing so. The .6 and earlier Maggies had parallel cross-overs and two pair of speaker cable connectors (which made bi-amping simple), but switched to series x/o’s for the .7 models (bi-amping them requires cutting into the x/o, installing another set of binding posts, etc.). Some of the monitoring loudspeakers used in recording studios come with filtering and a separate power amp for each driver, but they sound very different from audiophile speakers.

On the other hand, adding a sub or four to just about all loudspeakers provides many of the benefits of bi-amping, plus more. They present their own challenges to optimize in a room and system, of course.

o do it correctly is much more involved than merely putting an external x/o and a second amp onto a pair of loudspeakers. The internal speaker-level x/o must be discarded, the outboard line-level x/o doing all the filtering.
The whole idea was simple, to vertical bi-amp using the speakers internal xover.
All the other talk now has just confused the s**t out of OP into now giving up, so sad.
He could have have a great sound with the KISS horizontal bi-amp setup with these two amps.
Cheers George
The thing is, to bi-amp using the internal speaker-level x/o is to not reap some of the major benefits of bi-amping: keeping the woofer frequencies out of the m/t amp, eliminating the effect of the woofer's emf on the m/t drivers (they remain electrically connected through the x/o), etc. May as well just bi-wire, in the opinion of some.
The thing is, to bi-amp using the internal speaker-level x/o is to not reap some of the major benefits of bi-amping:

I totally understand where your going, but it’s obvious or not in tune with what the OP is capable or wanting to do.
It’s his thread so lets keep it to his speed., he has a bruiser of an amp for the bass and a delicate amps for the mid and highs, and he simply needed to passively bi-amp them.

Cheers George
Ah, NOW I get it George. As usual I was thinking in perfectionist terms; gotta keep the op more in mind.