How much does volume matter when breaking in amps and cables?


I'm not here to debate break-in. I generally leave new amps, components, and new cables playing low volume for a for long periods to start the break in process. Just curious how much does volume play a role in breaking in such. I get that speakers probably need pretty good amounts to push drivers, but what about other components?


aberyclark
These 10’ts clipped the 150 watt Mac.

 I have never had meters on my amps and my rooms have changed in the past 6 years three times from average to above average to smallish where I am now. My guitar amps are 22 and 18 watts  I can play pretty big places with 22 watts... I haven’t had the system running correctly for a couple years now. My cables are new and three years old... 

As far as interconnects go I dont know the watts thru them. Never thought about it. 
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mijostyn pleads:
Undoubtedly, electronic equipment drifts slowly overtime as some component values shift with recurrent heat cycles although I have never seen objective evidence of this. There is no electronic device that I know of that changes its characteristics in the first several hours of usage.


So you know electronic equipment changes, and yet there is none that you know of that changes. Fascinating.

mijostyn again:
Maybe class A or highly biased AB amps sound a little different after they heat up although having had several class A amps I have never been able to hear this


That would appear to be the problem then, wouldn’t it? You can’t hear it.

mijostyn, stepping in it Big Time:
I own two 911s a 2006 Speed Yellow C4S and a 2014 Guards Red Turbo S. Porsche’s break in recommendation has always been "keep it under 4000 rpm for the first 2000 miles." Absolute torture but there is no substitute.


You must be new here, or at any rate not following me long enough to know I’m a PCA Driving Instructor (Driver Ed, Autocross, Driver Skills), and former PCA Region President with something like 200k miles personally driven on his 79 SC that has been rebuilt, good friends with scads of Porsche techs. Can you say, oops?!?

First off, the factory break-in that is in "the" manual is different depending on which country the car is sold in. Same car. Different laws. That 4000 rpm has nothing to do with break-in. Sorry. But you could look it up.

Now what’s really interesting, not only for Porsche but all internal combustion engines, the one thing that really does need to be broken in a certain way early on is piston rings.

Very high (read, full throttle) loads very early on (first few miles) are needed to seat the piston rings. What happens is that even highly machined parts still have some fine sharp peaks at the micro level. Subjected to high pressure these will wear on each other in a way that facilitates a better piston to cylinder wall seal. But these peaks are very fine and wear away very quickly whether babied or driven hard. The problem is if you avoid full throttle early on then by the time you do it they are smooth and you lose the benefit.

This is why you never hear anything about Porsche (or anyone else, this is universal to piston engines) breaking in their racing engines for thousands of miles. For damn sure they want their LeMans engines to last. Yet they do not break them in by babying them around at low RPM. This is why if you take factory delivery in Leipzig where they have a track right there and ask if you need to baby your brand new car they will say, "NO! Warm it up, then drive it as hard as you want. That’s what it’s made for."

Experience and knowledge, mijostyn. Imagination is no substitute.