KLE RCA plugs are the real deal!!


I ordered a set of KLE RCA Pure Harmony plugs to use for a pair of interconnects using Duelund 16ga wire. I previously built a set, with good results, using standard switchcraft plugs. The difference, even without break in, was staggering. Although the Switchcraft plugs sounded good themselves alone, however, when doing a direct comparison to the KLE's, the difference is clear. The cables using the SC plugs sounded harsher (especially on high end) when compared to the KLE. The cables seem to have a "free-er"(FLOABT) sound or more flow. Seemed as if the SC's were holding something back. 

As far as building the cables, the separated solder posts make things way easier. Everything is quite compact (especially for larger wires) in the SC plugs. The removable grommets are a nice feature if one wants to use thicker cable wraps, shrink tubing or shielding. 

One other area I think the KLE's are great for is trying wire combinations without soldering. With the "V" shaped solder posts, one could "wrap" the ends somewhat snug and use the wire locking screws. You would still have to be very delicate when hooking up...however this is something that is pretty much impossible with the SC's. 

As I plan to build my entire system's cables, KLE will be the plugs I use on everything. I highly recommend
aberyclark
Hi Steve,

I just soldered KLEI to the tonearm interconnect instead of Furutech 126 (G).
I use WBT solder. 
The first impression is: the sound more transparent, better separation, details low level details, better focus. The tone is OK.
What I didn't like - on some records, the sound is too calm, too polite.
I know I need more time for solder break-in and I need to listen more different kind of music and records.
The good thing - it is impossible to make quick A/B, because to exchange RCA - cable should be re-soldered :-)
So, in any case it will be a long term listening test.

Regards,
Alex.
Alex - also remember the RCA's need considerable burn-in time.

From new, I found small improvements still occurring after 300 hours.

If previously burned in - I would give them at lease 60 hours to sound their best.

Happy Listening 
I have found very, very little difference going from the Copper to Silver to Pure. I feel there are two real choices. Copper Harmony if cost is an issue and Absolute Harmony if you want the best. The other two add unneeded complexity to the line. My honest opinion.

These take 100-125 hours to burn in fully based on my evaluations.
Alex - RE:

What I didn’t like - on some records, the sound is too calm, too polite.
Maybe it’s the actual wire that sounds "too polite" ?

The RCA’s have always responded very well to the various wires I have tried

I have been messing with cables for over 5 years and it never ceases to amaze me how the wire, or RCA or the insulation and even the cable geometry can mess with the sound.

Also - humans tend to attribute a change in sound to the latest change made - in this case the RCA’s - when in fact the RCA’s could be highlighting a property of the wire or cable itself.

The degree of difference you can hear by installing these RCA’s is determined not only by the RCA, but also the wire + the geometry of the cable

So unless you have very good wire and an excellent cable geometry then you may not hear the true benefits of these RCA plugs, or even the differences between them

The Helix geometry is perhaps one of the most transparent out there.
- I use Mundorf Silver/gold solid wire for the signal wire on all IC’s, but Duelund wire is also very good.

See: http://image99.net/blog/files/category-002ahelix-interconnect-cable.html

If the DIY Helix cable is not to your liking, then I would recommend the KLE Innovations Interconnects. I have tried most of their earlier designs and they were all excellent performers. The gZero10 is very good. They seem to have dropped the gZero3/6/20 IC’s

I have not tried the QFLOW or zPURITY series, but I read good things about them


Happy Listening







@grannyring - re:

I have found very, very little difference going from the Copper to Silver to Pure. I feel there are two real choices. Copper Harmony if cost is an issue and Absolute Harmony if you want the best. The other two add unneeded complexity to the line. My honest opinion.
I tend to agree somewhat with this comment - with the exception that the Silver harmony is my starting point, simply because in my system the improvement over the Copper Harmony was most noticeable. Also, the silver does wear off of the Copper Harmony pins, but the Silver Harmony seems to wear much better.

And for the few extra bucks the Absolute Harmony cost (that is compared to the Pure Harmony), it makes sense to buy them in place of the Pure harmony, because otherwise you'll always be wondering just how much better they might be.

Regards - Steve