Which Preamp Tube is most consequential: Input or Gain

@peterf6


"Thanks, @lowrider57 , the Freya has two tubes per channel. Forward and rear are L/R channels; while the two left tubes are Input and two rights are Cathode follower. So I've been changing the two inputs or the two outputs to keep the channels the same."

I believe you have this backward. To be clear, if looking at the Freya from the front of the unit, the left two tubes are the cathode and the right two are the input gain stage. I don't own this pre, I'm going from memory but I believe I am correct. I remember alot of useless info not directly applicable to me, LOL!

Hi @ghasley I got my info from tech support at Schiit (quote):L/R on the Freya is actually input/cathode follower and top/bottom is l/r.

I’ll try to confirm, but so that means you were suggesting going with the input side -- which if the tech is right is where they sound best in my experiment.

@rodman99999 Thank you for sending the link! I actually found that list embedded in another forum discussion. It’s why I picked the Tung Sols Halo Getters! I read the paragraph you mentioned; so interesting. And to think I stumbled upon it just to save some cash ’-) Actually reading it more closely it's different from the similar list I read. In case you’re interested in the other info in that post: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-reference-6sn7-thread.117677/

Input. I’ve owned an "original" Freya for a while and can absolutely say that different tubes present a markedly different sound, with the input tubes (on the right) having the main impact on tone. After rolling between the original Russian 68HCs and various 6SN7GTBs I’ve settled on NOS GE 6SN7GTBs to satisfy my tonal requirements...that and pot smoking.

@peter6- I’d never seen that site. More comprehensive/technical, than the ancient Chimera listening comparison. Thanks! Just fyi: I had long ago settled on Tung-Sol’s Round Plate & Sylvania’s W(tall bottle/metal base), for my input pairs(monoblocks/a pair per) and bought a few of each(back when they weren’t so salty). My backups are the bottom-gettered, early Fifties, Sylvanias and Ken-Rads, mentioned in both articles. I lose just a slight bit of stage depth, with those, in comparison to the RP’s & W’s. I’m partial to a very clean/uncolored sound and found most of the other tubes(on the Chimera list), to be too warm for my tastes, after trying the top 12 mentioned. As the second article states, changing the ID of a manufacturer’s tube(ie: whether VT-231, a JAN designation or a 6SN7 number), doesn’t change it’s internals. That’s why I’ve paired different brands, to assure the avoidance of reinforcing any weaknesses. Caveat: In the past two years, some of my Tung-Sols have exhibited intermittent, internal problems, crackling like crazy, until the amp’s top plate(or the tube) is tapped(less than optimum result, from so expensive an item). Haven’t heard anything, as to whether that’s endemic(RP, w/horizontal metal supports). Have fun/happy listening!