I don't understand how you can connect to the AC line on the street. Is that how a residence receives power in your country?
AC Dedicated Line
Hello guys
I will run three (3) dedicated AC power lines: one for my stereo system (power amp, preamp, DAC, etc) and two for my stereo subwoofers (one line for each one).
These three circuits will be connected directly to the main AC board of the Electrical Comany wich provides me the service right at my door.
They will all share the same ground cable, wich I will connect to a dedicated ground bar, but I would like your opinion about sharing the "same neutral line" on these circuits. Could it affect the sound quality?
If I have to send three different neutral cables, one for each circuit, I will need more cable to run through the house and it will be more expensive and complicated.
Please I would appreciate responses with real experiences. I don't want to start a technical discussion. I know at the end, in the main board, they all will share the same neutral line, so electrically it should be the same, but in this crazy audio world who knows for sure if soundwise it will be the same....
PS: by the way, I will run 4 or 6 mm2 cables (I guess about 11 to 9 AWG on the US scale). Here in Argentina we measure cables by square millimitres.
I will run three (3) dedicated AC power lines: one for my stereo system (power amp, preamp, DAC, etc) and two for my stereo subwoofers (one line for each one).
These three circuits will be connected directly to the main AC board of the Electrical Comany wich provides me the service right at my door.
They will all share the same ground cable, wich I will connect to a dedicated ground bar, but I would like your opinion about sharing the "same neutral line" on these circuits. Could it affect the sound quality?
If I have to send three different neutral cables, one for each circuit, I will need more cable to run through the house and it will be more expensive and complicated.
Please I would appreciate responses with real experiences. I don't want to start a technical discussion. I know at the end, in the main board, they all will share the same neutral line, so electrically it should be the same, but in this crazy audio world who knows for sure if soundwise it will be the same....
PS: by the way, I will run 4 or 6 mm2 cables (I guess about 11 to 9 AWG on the US scale). Here in Argentina we measure cables by square millimitres.
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- 58 posts total
I'm sorry, may be I expressed it in a wrong way. I will connect the line to the main breaker of the Electrical Company who supplies me the service. Not the street!!! I meant I will by pass my house's main breaker. I will connect a dedicated positive, a neutral and ground. The latest will be connected to a new copper bar, wich I will bury on the ground. |
plga said: I will connect the line to the main breaker of the Electrical Company who supplies me the service. Not the street!!! I meant I will by pass my house's main breaker.Total length, distance, of the new dedicated branch circuit wiring? plga said: I will only connect my system to the line, not the subwoofers.Where will you feed the subs from? How are the subs connected to the system? From what you have described you are doing, (if I understand you correctly), you will more than likely end up with a ground loop, and subsequently a ground loop hum. . |
plga I will connect the line to the main breaker of the Electrical Company who supplies me the service. Not the street!!! I meant I will by pass my house's main breaker.I do not think that complies with NEC - you'll also have to check your local code. That is definitely not allowed where I live. I'm not sure what you mean by "dedicated ground." All grounds and neutrals must be connected together inside the service panel. No exception - that's NEC. Also, some local codes require more than a single ground rod so again, so check local code. |
I will only connect my system to the line, not the subwoofers. I’ll add to what Jea48 has said above that IMO it would be far better to connect the subs to the new dedicated line, as well as the rest of the system. Based on what has been said earlier, including your own measurements that you described, it seems clear that 20 amps at 220 volts should be sufficient to power everything. And by having the safety grounds of different components in the system connected to different earth grounds the likelihood of hum problems, high frequency ground loop-related noise problems, and even serious damage to the system if lightning induced currents in the earth cause a potential difference (i.e., a voltage difference) between the two ground points, are all considerably increased. In any event, good luck as you proceed. Regards, -- Al |
- 58 posts total