Zu Omen or Tekton Lore

Can anyone offer some insight as to how the Oriels differ from the Lores, design and sound-wise?

Yeah, I've been wondering if the m-lore and maybe oriel as well have a little different character than the lore itself. The lack of whizzer has to do something, and I wonder if it might not shift the overall frequency balance just slightly lower.

As for me, I have some tentative plans in place to be auditioning the Lore-S in my home in the coming weeks. Won't be all that soon,and I won't have benefit of side by side comparison with my Lores, as we're swapping for a period of time. I'll be sure to post my impressions though.

I have owned my Lores for about 4 months now.
I will start by saying they are a great speaker for the money.
The thing they do best is well balanced bass and male vocals.
I no longer need my Epos sub woofer($800.00) built for 2 channel down to 20hz.because the Lore's will reach down into the 20hz. range at 10 watts using a tone sweep cd.just enough to fill in the lower octaves in music.Don't expect menny speakers to do this I'm not claiming a pure 20 hz. signal will shake your house but it is there enough to give Bass 31hz. and up a nice rich added layer of bass not found in most speakers there size and there is no big 60hz. spike like cheap ported subs not great for music.
I have made some major changes to my Lores as I felt there was a huge spike in the upper mid range and I am still working on this with Eric being very supportive all the way.
I have owned alot of speakers and after my son was born I had to get rid of my Sound Labs as having 800 volt electrostatics around a rug rat just won't do, so I was using a pair of recaped older Missions in the mean time.
A freind who owns Zu Omens recommended trying a pair of Lores so in late October I got them.
After 40 to 50 hours of break in a small issue occurred over a weekend,nothing big enough to go into, but I decided to recap the crossover with upgrade caps of the same value UF.
And while I was at it I used upgraded internal cable.
After that the top end did open up and it even sounded more analog,smoother but the bump in the upper mid range was still there only smoother.
The biggest issue I have had is in upper octaves of guitars,harmonicas,violins and female vocals being to sibilant my guess is something is peaked from 4khz. to 8khz.
causing to much bloat there.
Eric has been very helpful with this.
At the advice of a friend well educated in these things He recommended a small mod to tame this node,and it has gotten better reducing the peak from 5.5khz. to 10hz. by 2 db. and solving the problem for menny recordings but Gray Slick is still sibilant in White Rabbit and Sharl Crow's Soak up the Sun also Jennifer Warrens Famous Blue Rain Coat.
I am still working with Eric on this and we will get it resolved but I think the problem is not really in the crossover but the tweeters response I pulled up the tweeter specs from Madisound to find the tweeter rises like a flight of stairs, great above 15hz. where most of us have reduced hearing but a real bad thing where femail vocals are as it makes them sound overly ssssispy.
It's hard to say if my changing caps made it worse or just removed the vial making it more noticeable.
More later.

Thanks for the great info. Wow, you have really been through a journey. Curious: what are you running on the front end (source, pre, amp, etc.). Wondering how much of this is related to that or the room, etc. I say this because I never experienced with my my former Lores - the Audax was a great tweeter. I remember my top end being free of all sibilance with Quicksilver Mini Mites and cary Cdp-1 for source. The Pendragon as well, even with a lesser amp, but my room is also treated a bit so maybe I am a little spoiled with that, yet not the whole story because I've heard sibilance in this room with a different speaker. Sibilance is one issue I have never experienced with these, but when I did in the past it was usually a front end issue. I remember experiencing this with Paradigm speakers, but then again my electronics weren't up to snuff then either. Are you running tubes? Keep us informed...

The replacement caps where the Obbligato gold and Clarity Cap ESA and the shunting cap a Clarity Cap SA.
The internal wire I used is Audison 14 awg. Silver and Sonus for the long run from the binding posts to the X over.
I chose this wire because it is self dampening and non micro-phonic important inside a speaker cabinet.
I also will be upgrading to all mills 12 watt resisters shortly.
http://www.madisound.com/store/manuals/TW025A28.pdf
Looking at the tweeter response graph this tweeter goes from 99.2db. at 3,155khz. to 104.7khz. 14,090 then drops some as it gets to 20,000. Leaving a very large peek at from 5,000 to 8,000 where sibilance occurs in femail vocals and glare slaps you in the face from alot of instruments.
At first it seems like there is some extra detail but it doesn't take log before it starts to bother you.
I believe the tweeter is 90 degrees out of phase so from where the 10 uf cap and resister meet,I soldered a 50 ohm resister to the positive marked wire on the tweeter and this will shunt to ground stopping any oscillation as well.
End result a 2 db. drop from 5.5khz. to 10 khz.
I am going to try a Mills 12 watt 56 ohm and see the results,when my parts come in.
Aside from the runaway tweeter that will soon be tamed down where it needs it, these are the best speakers I have heard in menny ways. They far exceed there price of $999.00+ shipping.
BTW I also went with the gold Dayton Audio adjustable speaker spikes DSS4-G They alow you to slightly tilt your speakers back and they look great with the white cabinets and gold tweeter!
Eric said the mod is unorthodox but it works and IMO the Audax tweeter is unique and a little unorthodox as it's response is anything but flat!
The speakers are still my favorites but my opinion is they need hand tuning to bring out the most they can be.