Zu Omen or Tekton Lore

Thanks for the great info. Wow, you have really been through a journey. Curious: what are you running on the front end (source, pre, amp, etc.). Wondering how much of this is related to that or the room, etc. I say this because I never experienced with my my former Lores - the Audax was a great tweeter. I remember my top end being free of all sibilance with Quicksilver Mini Mites and cary Cdp-1 for source. The Pendragon as well, even with a lesser amp, but my room is also treated a bit so maybe I am a little spoiled with that, yet not the whole story because I've heard sibilance in this room with a different speaker. Sibilance is one issue I have never experienced with these, but when I did in the past it was usually a front end issue. I remember experiencing this with Paradigm speakers, but then again my electronics weren't up to snuff then either. Are you running tubes? Keep us informed...

The replacement caps where the Obbligato gold and Clarity Cap ESA and the shunting cap a Clarity Cap SA.
The internal wire I used is Audison 14 awg. Silver and Sonus for the long run from the binding posts to the X over.
I chose this wire because it is self dampening and non micro-phonic important inside a speaker cabinet.
I also will be upgrading to all mills 12 watt resisters shortly.
http://www.madisound.com/store/manuals/TW025A28.pdf
Looking at the tweeter response graph this tweeter goes from 99.2db. at 3,155khz. to 104.7khz. 14,090 then drops some as it gets to 20,000. Leaving a very large peek at from 5,000 to 8,000 where sibilance occurs in femail vocals and glare slaps you in the face from alot of instruments.
At first it seems like there is some extra detail but it doesn't take log before it starts to bother you.
I believe the tweeter is 90 degrees out of phase so from where the 10 uf cap and resister meet,I soldered a 50 ohm resister to the positive marked wire on the tweeter and this will shunt to ground stopping any oscillation as well.
End result a 2 db. drop from 5.5khz. to 10 khz.
I am going to try a Mills 12 watt 56 ohm and see the results,when my parts come in.
Aside from the runaway tweeter that will soon be tamed down where it needs it, these are the best speakers I have heard in menny ways. They far exceed there price of $999.00+ shipping.
BTW I also went with the gold Dayton Audio adjustable speaker spikes DSS4-G They alow you to slightly tilt your speakers back and they look great with the white cabinets and gold tweeter!
Eric said the mod is unorthodox but it works and IMO the Audax tweeter is unique and a little unorthodox as it's response is anything but flat!
The speakers are still my favorites but my opinion is they need hand tuning to bring out the most they can be.

What's your placement like, Goramon? I find tilting them up a bit above the listener's ear greatly smoothed things out for me and added lots of ambience and soundstage depth too. I've been meaning to try opening them up and dampening the cabinet with Dynamat, as I suspect that would help with the last bit of imaging and soundstage. They're excellent stock, but there are still occasional times when an instrument, usually electric guitar, sounds like it's coming straight from the speakers and not from the rest of the soundstage.

That forward guitar sound is just what I'm talking about,try playing White Rabbit or Soak up the Sun and you will see what I mean.
Not all female vocals will have this problem but recordings like Famous Blue Rain coat will point it out.
A good read here. http://www.audiolofftreport.com/speakersound.html

That upper mid range glare comes right at you.
As for sound treatments the room is carpeted no hard wood floors,acoustic ceiling and 8X16 Sq.ft. sound treatments.
Amp Manley Labs Stingray in Triode input tubes Mullards,output TAD EL84 STR interconnects White zombie audio La Cacanya (silver Teflon) Speaker cables (7 Awg silver Teflon).
Source a very modified 500gig. first gen. Apple T.V. linked by an all glass Tolsink cable to a little dot Dac 1.Apple loss-less files.
I also tested using my Music hall level 1 mod.CD25.2
To find the same thing.
I do like the idea of Dymamating the inside only where the fiberglass currently is but careful not to over dampen as you could deaden to much.
I came from a first class vinyl rig to loss less file as a way of making room for a new son.
So I know what artifacts can come from both analog and digital but this node lives with in the tweeter i'm pretty sure,having said that not every production run of any component is exactly as the one modeled and graphed and that's why guys like Henry Kloss believed in hand tuning by ear as the final finish,but at $999.00 a pair that's asking a bit much. They are not $7,000 dollar speakers.
Eric, dose a remarkable job in coming very close to the best at a give away price and there is a need for his place in the market.
Being a father now I can't go run out and spend thousands on my hobbies but I can get the musical speaker I have ever heard and spend a little time taming a little peak to make them just how I want them to sound.
I have always hated 99th row performance of todays high end audio (live music dose't sound like that.The Lore sounds like your 5 or 6 tables away from a live band in an intimate night club and that is just what rocks my boat.
When I get them sorted out I'll wright more.

By the way Dynamat and fiberglass serves two different purposes.
The fiber glass absorbs and defuses the rear wave coming off the back of the driver cone and keeps the driver from ringing from directly reflected out of phase sound waves.

The dynamat simply deadens any resonance from the cabinet it's self and reduces cabinet ring or harmonics from the cabinets resonate frequency.

To much dampening can have negative effects on a ported cabinet and I think Eric has found a sweet spot as far as dampening and porting.
The Bass seems layered and tight,not very far off from a sealed cabinet IMO so I really don't think I would mess with that because if the speakers go dead Dynamat is near impossible to compleatly remove.