Cartridge upgrade for vintage TT - MM or MC?


I have a Technics SL-D202 that currently has a Sumiko Pearl on it, which is OK but I don't totally love it. The midrange is nice but the treble in particular is lacking. Compared to my digital source it sounds dull and lifeless and therefore I hardly use it.

My question is, would it be at all worth it to upgrade the cartridge or should I just wait until I can upgrade the TT totally?  I am considering the Schiit Sol in the future if they ever get it back on the market but my wife really likes the automatic function of our current table so I may be stuck with it or something similar at least for now.

I had considered trying a lower-end MC cartridge and seeing how that sounds but any other recommendations would be appreciated.

I use a Schiit Mani pre which can be adjusted for any cart (or so I'm told).  

The table came stock with a AT-71E and I also tried a Shure MX97e but neither of those really wow'ed me.
elangley01
The PLX1000 has a medium mass arm. It works fine with the low-compliance Denon mc. I have other TTs with high-mass arms (Empires) that are certainly suitable for mc cartridges. Plus also two Fidelity Research arms designed by the late Ikeda-san (FR29 and FR54) expressly for MCs.
I don't believe in re-tipping. When my Denons get too worn I can trade them in for new replacements. And they can certainly go beyond 300 hours by use of Stylast. 
I have no idea how a conical tip with 2g tracking force can last more than 300-400 hrs not being worn out, elliptical can be used a bit longer, but they are all inferior compared to a proper profiles like Shibata, LineContact, MicroRidge ... that comes with MM and MI cartridges (some of them also have much better cantilevers).

I have never experienced roll-off with MM or MI from Stanton or AT top models, but i pretty much experienced a roll-off with SPU cartridges (just like oldchool Denon). MM is a choice of industry professionals, let me remind about this article again. Since they are vintage cartridges (from the 70s/80s) we can’t find much info about them, except for an old press like TAS etc.

Denon require not a Mid Mass arm, but a Superheavy mass arm like FR-64s (over 30g). So you need an iron headshell and a brick instead of the regular counterweight on your Pioneer turntable.

In fact i have Grado Signature XTZ (MI) right now on my Denon DA-401 tonearm and this particular Grado was the best from the founder of the company. And yes, the price was $750 in the 80’s. I like this cartridge, but it can’t surpass some of the very best MM from AT, Victor or Stanton.


I have submitted a technical inquiry with Fluance to have them explain their cartridge matching to me.

Maybe they just don't think resonant frequency is a big deal? The agent I spoke with said the specs are correct.
@elangley01,

You can learn a lot from guys here on agon like, millercarbon, chakster and rauliruegas. They have posted so much helpful information, tips, product data, etc, that it may help if you google your question and do your research there first, you will be surprised with how good and straight forward the many responses you will get from those same fellows. Sometimes it gets a little tedious for them and us to write the same thing over and over.

For example here are a few simple turntable upgrades I learned from rauliruegas:
@bstatmeister,
Sorry for coming to the party so late. I really have come to enjoy my Shure V15VxMR MM cartridge with the JICO SAS VN5xMR stylus and I wanted to share this with you. And you must read Raul’s thread.

I tricked out a $70 ’antique shop’ Technics SL-D2 direct drive turntable and a $200 Pioneer PL-600 direct drive turntable (the silver one) and upgraded the headshells with Ortofon LW-800S and LW-7N headshell wires, rewired the tonearm with KAB SuperFlex and Cardas tonearm wires, upgraded the cartridge and stylus with the Shure V15VxMR cartridge and the JICO SAS VN5xMR stylus. (That I switch out) And hardwired the phono interconnects with the very inexpensive but value added Blue Jeans Cable LC-1’s with the preamp output interconnects being Blue Jeans Cable LC-1’s also.
As far as playing ’albums’ I believe the best upgrade I made from a pure sound standpoint was adding a Parks Audio Budgie Tube Phono preamplifier at $399 with a pair of NOS Telefunken E88CC/6922’s at $454 after selling my $1748 Pro-Ject Phono Box RS MM/MC and the companion Pro-Ject battery powered Power Box RS power supply that I fortunately sold for a little above cost.

After adding the Parks Audio Budgie Tube Phono preamplifier I was amazed at the transparency, depth, wide soundstage, and dynamic range of sound. The Parks Audio Budgie Tube Phono preamplifier is a single ended Class A tube circuit. See the reviews.

Now I’m on the hunt for the ’mysterious’ Shure Ultra 500 cartridge.

Ahh...The dreaded disease of ’upgraditis’.

I hope my post here helps you out some.

Please see here:

https://hometheaterreview.com/shure-v15-phono-cartridge-reviewed/
http://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/the-shure-v15vxmr-revisited-what-a-great-phono-cartridge.38495...

tyray
And since you mentioned your Schiit Mani phono preamp, I’ve since upgraded my phone interconnect cable with shielded and unshielded Duelund 20GA wire with KLEI™Absolute Harmony Plugs, speaker wire with Duelund 12GA and phono mat with GEM Dandy rubber cork compound mat.

I’m a Technics direct drive turntable guy too and I’m waiting for them to get rid of the internal phono preamp in the new Technics SL-1500C turntable and put those resources somewhere else on that deck.

The digging for the right information and applying it is the fun stuff. It just takes some time to digest all this ’stuff’.