Which vintage direct drive?

@enobenetto 

I just learned that the TT-01 is the Japanese version and the JVC-QL10 is the American one. Is there an issue with using a step-up transformer with a direct drive?

JP has stated the TT-101 can be rewired internally to 110/115 volts, I use a step down on my TT-101.

   I can't comment on some of the brands mentioned but I can comment on Pioneer tables. The PL-70 that the OP mentioned in the list of possibilities is a step above the PL-530 I bought new in the 70's. Have gone thru a few cartridges and am now using a Grado Gold with a very decent phono pre (very important). As with any "vintage" table it is almost certain that issues may need to be addressed. Depends on the age and amount of use the table has seen. My PL-530 is a model that is particularly susceptible to cracking of the plastic tonearm base (which I repaired).

   Bottom line....there are many brands and models of these vintage tables and many rival the performance of modern day units. Probably not those super expensive ones but in the "vintage" days the super expensive ones didn't exist for the average buyer. If you are lucky enough to find one locally or the buyer can provide proof of evaluation by an expert service person then that should be paramount. Any table can deteriorate with age. But, some models have a unique history of common failures like my Pioneer.

   Good Luck to you. There are some great vintage tables out there.

Terry9:

“Suggest that you consider belt drive. I tried a quality vintage DD, and it was notably inferior to the belt drives - but then again, they (the belt drives) were far more money.”

Prey tell, what DD did you use that was inferior to a belt drive?

Belt drives tend to be a boondoggle for the mfrs. They are far cheaper to design and manufacture, yet they charge more. Take your best belt drive, mount the noiseless,  cogless, slotless, brushless dc motor to the platter and you have a competent DD. Throw away the added belt motor, belt, extra friction noise and extra bearings and noise sources of the belt drive.

Eno, You wrote, "I just learned that the TT-01 is the Japanese version and the JVC-QL10 is the American one."
That is not correct.  First, the alphanumeric designation of the chassis is TT101, not "TT-01", but I expect that was just a typo.  More importantly, the QL10 consists of a TT101 chassis + plinth + Victor tonearm, usually the UA7045 (9 inches) but sometimes the 12-inch version, UA7082 (I think). So, for Victor ("JVC" only in the USA), the TT prefix indicates a chassis with no plinth and no tonearm.  The QL prefix indicates a complete ready to use turntable system.  I can't comment on a comparison of the specific models you mention, because I only own one of them, the TT101/QL10. I added several pounds of mass and stiffness to the plinth, made an armboard out of aluminum to replace the standard MDF armboard, and then mounted a Fidelity Research FR64S tonearm with B60 base, to replace the UA7045, which I do intend to try out some time.  This combo is fantastic.  I think the QL10 would outperform the PL70, but the TTS-8000 with proper restoration and a careful set-up might compete with TT101, but like I said, I am not qualified to make these comparisons.  You'd still need the FR64S, in my opinion.

What about a Technics SP10MKII? Much easier to find than any of your chosen models, probably no more expensive, almost certainly more reliable and/or more easily repaired, and probably better to boot.