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Seeking help finding the weak link(s) in my system and offering suggestions please.

Hi! I recently paid a visit to a local audio salon and listened to a system that was so good I was "moved". However, I could never afford the price of entry to realize this kind of sound reproduction. I have spent the last couple of years assembling a system I could afford, focusing on components I felt were the best bang for the buck. I'm not trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, however with your help I am hoping to find where I may have a weak link or two. My budget makes this a challenge as I have only about 1K to invest. Thank you to all those in advance for your suggestions, my system is listed below. One more item, about 90% of my listening is Qobuz streaming.

System:
Dedicated/Isolated 20Amp AC source with PS Audio outlet.
Furman AC power conditioning.
Nordost Magus Power cords for source equipment and Kimber PK10 for Amp.
Ethernet cables all CAT7.
Kimber Silver Streak both balanced and SE throughout.
Speaker cables are Blue-Jeans 10AWG White - two 15' pair.
USB cable from PC to streamer is Audio Adviser Pangea SE 2 meter.
Canare/Have digital 1.5M coax from transport to Streamer.
Krell Vanguard Integrated Amp.
Cambridge Audio AZURE 851N Streamer/DAC.
Sonus Faber Electa monitors.
Sunfire HRS series subwoofer.
Sony SCD2000ES Transport/SACD player.
Luxman T117 Tuner (Best sounding component)?

Again, I appreciate your kind assistance, I am really looking forward to responses!

GRM

grm
stereo5's avatar
stereo5
6,272 posts
 
If it were I, I would pass on the Synergistic snake oil and stick to more mainstream equipment.  
grm OP
149 posts
 
I'm very interested in learning more about DSP Room Correction. Does anyone have experience with this and where do you start?

Thanks!
auxinput
2,920 posts
 
Two components I see that are reducing the overall resolution:

Krell Vanguard Integrated.  This is an excellent integrated, but the newer Krell amplifiers are very smooth and really smooth over the high frequencies.

Blue-Jeans 10AWG White.  This is basically the Beldon 5T00UP cable.  It's low grade copper.  I have actually had this in my system and it sounded very low res and did not have the high frequency resolution and transparency.  Kind of like lo-fidelity product.  A basic 12 awg stranded Monster cable did SIGNIFICANTLY better.

These two combined with the Sonus Faber, which are absolutely excellent sounding, but do not have as much high frequency extension and resolution as other speakers, means that the system is not going to be as transparent as you would like it to be.
grm OP
149 posts
 
Thanks auxinput1 for the candid feedback. I need (for my budget) to make the Krell and Sonus Faber's to work. I really like the Krell's ability to maintain a vise-grip lock on my speakers and go to near live volume levels without breaking a sweat - very powerful. The Sonus Fabers are not only beautiful pieces of craftsmanship but I also feel they match well with the Krell. Lastly, I agree the Blue-Jeans cables may be a limiting factor, on paper and as measured, they seem good, but measurements do not necessarily equate to good sound. The problem I am having is for my set-up I require two 15' runs of cable, and the top shelf hooch for cables of this length are stratospheric in terms of cost unless someone knows of a sub 1K cable that would fit the bill. 

Thank you! 
auxinput
2,920 posts
 
A 15 foot pair of Rocket 44 Premium No Frills at audio advisor is $515.  The premium version uses better Pangea spades/bananas than the regular no frills:

https://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AQPGRO44N&opt=3926|3933|3940|3944

Or you could move up to Rocket 88 no frills for $1049.  It uses better copper and would have better resolution, but doesn't have the Pangea banana/spades:

https://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AQRO88NF&opt=4736|4745|4749|4752

I would NOT bi-wire these because it splits apart the conductors and you end up with smaller amount of overall bass/mid conductor.  Just get a normal pair and connect it to the upper binding posts on the Electa.  Then use a really good jumper to connect upper/lower binding posts.

However, if you wanted much better resolution, I would get the rocket 44/88 and chop the ends and re-terminate with Furutech Rhodium FP-201 R spades available for $17 each from Sonic Craft or Parts Connexion.   The gold-plated terminations are nice but warmer in sound and don't have as much high frequency resolution.  You could start out with the gold and then chop/upgrade to rhodium later if you felt you needed more resolution.  The rhodium will also have tighter deep bass as well.
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