Should I sell my accuphase for this schiit

This by them says it all.
It shows an improvement in THD while in bridged mode, provided speaker ohm is not less than 4 ohm. However, they still claim "bi-amping is best for "optimum sound quality".

Better off with a 20w Class-A Aegir in stereo feeding both tweeters (that will stay Class-A much longer where it counts in the highs, than a mono one doing full range), and then a 100w Class-A/B Vidar feeding the bass.

Cheers George

I won't disparage Schiit gear as I own two pieces and couldn't be more pleased.  However, I was expecting somewhat of a retraction, being that I put up solid evidence that bridging isn't as bad as you claimed... at least with top quality gear.

Another factor here is If the poster takes your advice, you should make him aware that there is no attenuation controls on either amplifier so, he will likely have a significant imbalance between lows and highs that will make his Schiit sound like s***.

If the poster takes your advice, you should make him aware that there is no attenuation controls on either amplifier so, he will likely have a significant imbalance between lows and highs that will make his Schiit sound like s***.

You need to read a bit more carefully, before saying anything

" That will blow the old Accuphase away big time. (may need a $38 Shiit Sys passive on the louder of the two amps if they are not the same gain to equalize the gains) and then keep using your Freya as the main preamp and volume."   

OK George, you covered it.  Good enough, though you sound mad.  You mad about something?  

I'm sorry you don't like it when some upstart on the forum corrects you with facts concerning your misleading statements.  Try to put the pride in check George.

Warm regards

@georgehifi remember we covered that the Sierra2ex are not setup For bi-wire. I’m not sending them back and getting them to customize it. Maybe they would send me a new posts and crossover and I could pop it in. If I did that I would just keep the accuphase for the bass instead of buying a Vidar BUT... because the RAAL tweeters are the part of the speaker that needs the watts (I think I just made that up) I don’t think the aegir would work anyway. And plus.... putting in a passive switch and all that just seems like more schiit in the signal path. I mean in theory ok it works, but.....