More questions about dedicated lines


We are moving to a new house built in 2007  and I am fortunate enough to be able to move a wall to create a room with golden ratios. I will need to run some new electric and it gives me the opportunity to run dedicated lines.  I have spent countless hours rummaging through the 7k discussions on this topic and have a decent idea of what is needed.  My plans are to have four runs of Romex 10/2, one each for each monoblock VAC signature 200's, my digital, and my Audiokinesis swarm which has not be set up yet.  I estimate the runs to be conservatively 45 feet including up and down distances. All runs will be of equal length ending in SR  outlets. They will be separate from each other and all other lines and no metal staples will be used.  When I told him I my goal was to have the best sound he offered a suggestion that I hadn't come across in my electrical education here on the gon.  He suggested placing what sounded like a commercial power regenerator with a large battery bank as the first step out of the breaker box and running lines from this.  The other options were to run from a preexisting sub panel that has the pool pump and a few lights on it, but nothing else.  Third is straight out the breaker box.  He wanted to put the runs closest to the utility line in, stating that there will be less noise upstream than downstream, but this puts these lines next to a big double breaker (cant' remember what it is but is sure to be noisey).  He understands that I want all lines on the same phase, or line,leg.  My questions are: Of the three options, which would be best?  Is there anything else needed to minimize the risk of ground loop hum if I use separate hot, return, and gound for each line and not share ground neutrals and keep all lines separated from themselves and other lines.  If going through a subpanel with little on it, how do I manage to keep all runs on the same phase without unbalancing the breaker? A third tangential question-Is it best to use metal or plastic housing boxes for the receptacle? The question of durability of the plastic fatiguing and breaking following repeated plugging and unplugging has been mentioned but I didn't see an answer.  Finally, a huge thank you to jea and almarg for their voluminous responses in all the prior electrical discussions-I got an education.  Sadly, I still don't speak electricalese.
orthomead
The problem with power supply decoupling through multiple lines is that unless you couple the grounds at your system, you are now injecting differential ground noise, which arguably is worse.

The concern with amplifiers is not average draw, but peak draw, which for an AB amplifier could easily be several times the fuse/breaker rating even though the average draw is far below the fuse rating. Over a 45 foot run, that could cause a large voltage drop at the top and bottom of the AC waveform when the amplifier capacitors are charging. For that reason, a 10awg run may not be sufficient  (though the resistance may reduce EMI).  I run a single 6awg, mini panel, outlets close by. That makes individual ground runs short between equipment, and a low resistance run back to the panel. I think it is a good compromise.
So if I am finally starting to understand, Audiozen, that by running a large gauge wire to a minipanel, all lines from the minipanel are on the same phase relative to the main box and main power and shorter multiple strands reduces the size of any antenna effect? Is the minipanel in a closet or out of direct sight.  I could do this with the closet that will be next to the wall where the outlets will be. And if I'm understanding Jea correctly, I flunk my Agon review.  Soo, for my purposes, if running multiple dedicated lines from the breaker to the outlets, 3 wire metal clad would be superior to Romex?  At least I'm totally clear that a deeper plastic outlet box is the way to go.  Benzman, in terms of no staples, my electrician would suspend the wires with two interconnected plastic ties, one of which suspend the wire, the second would be nailed to wood. Your room sounds awesome, by the way.  Please keep us updated. Thanks again everyone for your interest and help.
Much like everything else, the only way to really know is to try and listen. Standard audiophile practice is to change only one thing, since if you change several things at once its impossible to know what did what.

Logically then it is at least unlikely, if not downright impossible, to know which of all these different ideas is going to work best without having actually tried and compared.

Who here has done that?

I mean, besides me?
Is there a reason you don’t want to do as the electrician you consulted advised? Why not get a second opinion from another one in your area who is familiar with local codes and can give an opinion based on what he actually sees is doable in your house.
Regarding option #2, which hasn't gotten a lot of support, there may be a way to improve.  It is called a "soft start" for motors, mostly used on A/C units, but I also found the "EasyStart 364" which might work for a pool pump.  I'm NOT an electrician, so don't just grab one and slap it on without consulting the qualified electrician.  I would be interested to hear his opinion.  I can say that I have the "soft start" for both my A/C units, mostly installed just to avoid that chance of both starting simultaneously.  The only drawback is they are IMHO a bit expensive.  It is also supposed to help the lifespan of the motor, but I'm not sure if that is reaching a bit or not.
If you really wanted to do something drastic, you could take the pool pump off-grid with a solar pool pump, but of course that is running up into a more major investment, but in the long-run might prove to be economically viable.  It would run even during a power outage, of course only during the day, but you wouldn't have to worry about the pool turning green if power is out for several days.