Haven't had a response from Chakster about the noise, but here are some more details about how I eliminated the faint rubbing sound I had that was due to the rotor rubbing on either the inner surface of the top cover (rotor too high) or on the stator itself (rotor too low). I first created a hole in the bottom of the chassis can, directly under the bearing housing in the dead center of the chassis can, using a hole punch designed for cutting thin metal. Then, while the motor was operating, I reached under the chassis with a thin blade slot-head screw driver and engaged that slotted, threaded cap situated at the bottom of the bearing well. Adjusting the position of that cap in it threaded mount moves the entire spindle assembly and everything attached to it, which includes the rotor, up or down. I gently and very slowly turned the screw driver, trying both directions because I did not know which way it needed to go, until I eliminated the periodic rubbing sound. Voila'.
Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?
I have just acquired a 32 year old JVC/Victor TT-101 DD turntable after having its lesser brother, the TT-81 for the last year.
TT-101
This is one of the great DD designs made at a time when the giant Japanese electronics companies like Technics, Denon, JVC/Victor and Pioneer could pour millions of dollars into 'flagship' models to 'enhance' their lower range models which often sold in the millions.
Because of their complexity however.......if they malfunction.....parts are 'unobtanium'....and they often cannot be repaired.
TT-101
This is one of the great DD designs made at a time when the giant Japanese electronics companies like Technics, Denon, JVC/Victor and Pioneer could pour millions of dollars into 'flagship' models to 'enhance' their lower range models which often sold in the millions.
Because of their complexity however.......if they malfunction.....parts are 'unobtanium'....and they often cannot be repaired.
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- 1793 posts total
I first created a hole in the bottom of the chassis can, directly under the bearing housing in the dead center of the chassis can, using a hole punch designed for cutting thin metal. I didn't understand the whole explanation but it seems a delicate job; didn't you fear to do some damage compromising the result? And the oil did not spill? Under the engine I know this screw cemented by the factory. https://i.postimg.cc/T2Vm0Zj8/A.jpg Wasn't it enough just to adjust the one higher or lower? |
SAEC's SS-300 mat is aluminum, anodised black and then coated with a very thin ( and very strong ) teflon coating The success of the mat is in its cut-outs in the physical design as well as the coating which stops ringing and is gentle on records as well as being anti-static and balanced Long out-of-production, I've tried dozens of mats and the SAEC is a keeper RTatts |
SAEC's SS-300 mat is aluminum, anodised black and then coated with a very thin ( and very strong ) teflon coating I have the same feelings, it's one of the best mat in my opinion. Here is the one on my Luxman PD-444, it's perfect for almost any turntable, i've been using it on Technics SP-10mkII and SP-20 too, it is also fine for SL1210mkII+ series, Victor TT-101 or Denon DP-80. When i bought NOS sample in the box (with manual) i notices red tool and a small metal piece that allow to tighten up the mat to the spindle with a tiny screw (this is why there is a very small treated hole in the mat near the spindle hole). When you're buying a used sample these parts always missed and i believe a few people seen it. |
- 1793 posts total