Best Tonearm and Cartridge for 4K or under for restored Garrard 301


I have a good set up for digital audio and would like to venture into analog audio. My digital set up is
Cary DMS600 -> Cary SLP05 -> Cary CAD211FE -> KEF Blade. I love the sound!

My first and only TT is a Thorens TD126 with TP16 tonearm and TMC60 MC -> PPA990 and phono stage is Cary PH302.

I bough an old Garrard 301. Planning to get it restored by Jim Campbell. Have a slate plinth. Now I am looking for a tonearm and cartridge that will justify my set up. I am thinking 4K. I could go lower or higher depending on the feedback, cost/value. I am looking for a good bargain. If I don't like it, I can easily sell it without much loss. I listen to classical, jazz, rock, indian music. 

I have never setup a tonearm before. But I looked extensively on the internet and Michael Fremer's how to set up videos. I understand all the different angles, VTA, SRA, Azimuth, Zenith. 

Looks like Michael likes Kuzma 4PT, I liked his review of the tonearm.
I am also looking at linear trackers like Transfi Terminator.
Woody, Triplaner Mk VII, SME 3012R, SME 312, Ortofon RS 309D, Dynavector DV 505/ 507, Reed 3P, Stogi reference, FR 64S, FR 64 FX, Sumiko 800.

kanchi647
Miller would have a baby with my tonearms setup on my 401.
Micro Seiki ma505ls.
Detachable headshell.
Din plug cable.
Out to Denon sut.
Out to Phonostage
Finally into integrated.

Lol.

But not quite sure why Miller even posting here as he is a confirmed idler drive hater?
Rumble, rumble like a cement mixer .
😉😉
@lewm

Chakster wrote that Oswald Mills Audio plinth is made of graphite. That is incorrect. They are made of Pennsylvania slate. Slate and graphite are two different things.


Wow, so it was my mistake then, mainly because those slate plinth looks identical to OMA graphite mats and shells. I watched a video how it was made (the plinth). Seems like they do not make any slate plinth anymore, now only cast iron.


OMA Graphite mat and graphite headshell

"The OMA graphite mat is precision machined from an extremely high grade of polycrystalline graphite, not amorphous carbon, which is graphite dust in resin." -OMA


Also, perhaps paradoxically, use of a heavier counterweight could have the effect of reducing the effective mass of the tonearm overall. This is because the effect of the counter weight on tonearm effective mass is proportional to its distance from the pivot-squared, times the weight of the CW. Thus the distance from the pivot is dominant. And substituting a heavy CW for a light one will bring the CW closer to the pivot, all other things being equal.


This is where you are wrong, because IKEDA-SAN designed OPTIONAL W-250 counterweight for FR-64fx tonearm for use with his FR-7f series cartridges. Cartridge alone is over 30g and counterweight is located very close to the pivot when i’m using FR-7fz on my FR-64fx. As you can see in the catalog W-250 counterweight comes with FR-66fx tonearm, the 66 is higher mass arm.

To use FR-64fx with FR-7f series (or SPU) every owner need a heavier counterweight (W-250) for optimal performance on this particular tonearm. Bacause the stock counterweight for FR-64fx toneams is much lighter and smaller, to balance FR-7f it must be far away from the spindle which is NOT optimal for high mass low compliance cartridges. This is why W-250 was made by Ikeda. And it is very close to the pivot when FR-7fz is mounted and adjusted. W-250 is bigger than heaviest counterweight you have with your FR-64s.

My comment was given for Fidelity-Research tonearm "FX" series.

Now i have two FR-64fx tonearms, one that i use ONLY with my FR-7fz with W250 counterweight and it’s optimal for this combination according to Ikeda-San.

And another NOS in the box with stock small counterweight for conventional cartridges on conventional headshells that i’m gonna try on this tonearm in the future (Miyabi for example). "FX" series is so beautiful and i love it! I wish i could have black B-60 base for it. But now i have two N-60 for my FX beauties.  

Anyway, my FR-64s with b60 is next to it. 






But not quite sure why Miller even posting here as he is a confirmed idler drive hater?


At the risk of making the obvious mistake of thinking logic has anything to do with an uberwaltz post, having never said even one word one way or the other about idler wheels- EVER! Find it uberwaltz and I will GIVE YOU MY TURNTABLE you useless piece of... nevermind,like we all don't know anyway- so no merit as usual to that. But even if I had- which I have not!- I'd be a lousy idler wheel hater seeing as my own freaking turntable is rim drive, which is essentially a variation on an idler wheel!
Check it out! https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367
So much for the hater part. Now on to the question of why I'm posting here. Which is obvious to everyone else. Since the OP is asking about tone arms, I am letting him know about tone arms. Unlike uberwaltz, who went way off topic into idler drive just to gratuitously slam me for something I never did.

Doesn't make a lick of sense. Just like uberwaltz. Well I did say its a mistake to apply logic to any of his posts. Right again.

                 
Miller

I must humbly apologise here, I could have sworn it was yourself that was the idler hater.
I was wrong.
It is Mijo.
Jeez, what a klutz.
At least I can admit when wrong though, unlike some.

In my defence it has been increasingly hard to tell the pair of you apart at times though but no excuse, I screwed up badly on that accusation.


In my defence it has been increasingly hard to tell the pair of you apart at times though but no excuse, I screwed up badly on that accusation.


hahaha, almost every thread on here going crazy after first 5 posts or so