2. amps-preamps
  3. 157750-146077

Advice/Warnings for a newbie

Hi

I've had way too much free time and gone down a few rabbit holes purchasing some older gear, some of which I've got a little experience with and some none... but was curious, because I am not the best technically, if any of the more seasoned audiophiles might have any advice regarding my chain. I'm replacing my 30w Pioneer receiver with separates (put all my specs in the below list) – I got the preamp as a family hand-me-down and I've just bought the monoblocks (having service done now) so I've not heard it all together yet. The player and speakers I've been using forever. But will I OK in terms of matching impedances, gain, etc? Oh, and I'm installing a dedicated line for the monoblocks and was looking at a Niagara 1200 as power conditioner for the rest.... any tips greatly appreciated!


Technics SL1200M3D
Tonearm: Jelco 750D
External PSU: Paul Hynes SR4
+
Cart: Nagaoka MP150
Type: Moving Iron
Output voltage: 1kHz, 5cm/sec:4.5mV
Frequency range: 20-20kHz
Material: diamond, nude
Stylus type: elliptical 0.4 x 0.7 mil
Tracking force range: 1.5–2g
Tracking force, recommended: 1.8g
Recommended load capacitance: 150-200pF

>>

Phono Stage: RCM Sensor 2 
Input: RCA – Balanced and Unbalanced (selectable via switch)
Output: Balanced XLR / Unbalanced (single ended)
Input sensitivity: 0.3–5mV (selectable in 7 steps)
Gain: 52–76dB (2 VRMS output at 1 kHz)
Input impedance: 20–47kΩ (selectable in 8 steps)
Input capacitance: 150 pF
THD: 0,01% (1kHz)
RIAA linearity: +/-0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)
Nominal output: 2V rms
Max. output level: 8V rms
Output impedance: 70 ohm
S/N: 85dB (lowest gain settings)
RIAA linearity: +/- 0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)

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Cello Palette Preamplifier
Maximum output: 8V RMS (single-ended), 16V RMS (balanced)
Line Gain (Switchable): 0dB, 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 18dB
THD (ref. 6V): 0.084%
Input impedance (Unbalanced): 1MΩ
Output Impedance: 150Ω

Running Balanced into >>

Pass Labs Aleph 2 (Monoblocks)
Topology: Class A, single-ended
Power Output: 100W into 8Ω / 200W into 4Ω
Maximum Output: 10A, 40V (Peak)
Gain (Balanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced, XLR Jumpered): 26dB
Distortion (100W, 8Ω, 20Hz-20kHz): 0.5%
Input Impedance (Balanced): 25kΩ
Input Impedance (Unbalanced): 10kΩ
Output Impedance: 0.1Ω
Damping Factor: 100
Common Mode Rejection: 60dB
Power Consumption: 300w
Output Noise: 600μV
DC Offset: <100mV

>>

A/D/S L1290 Loudspeakers
Frequency responce: 40hz–27khz,
Impedance: 8Ω nominal
Efficiency: 90dB SPL from 2.8 VRMS (1W)
Crossovers: 500hz and 5khz, 12dB/Octave slopes

au_lait
millercarbon's avatar
millercarbon
12,531 posts
 
Thanks mrdecibel he did misunderstand and yes everything matters. The problem in situations like this where the OP doesn't know and if I was there and could see and hear it would be easy but going by partial info its impossible. So my default is replace any and all freebie patch cords, rubber power cords, and ordinary speaker wire. 

In this case the OP is so far off base- dedicated lines, a zillion meaningless specifications but not one word how it sounds or what he is after- it seemed a waste to try and say anything beyond yes power cords do make a difference.

When you do hook all that up au_lait very likely you will find its pretty good but awful lean, excessively detailed and hifi sounding. That's just what you have. Some of that stuff is very well regarded but taken all together inappropriate and could probably be sold for enough to buy a much better sounding integrated amp. This will save you a lot of money because power cords do make a difference and the same $1200 that will buy you three $400 power cords for the pre/monoblocks will buy you one insanely good $1200 power cord. By insanely good I mean so freaking good even the near deaf boobs who think power cords are zero zilch nada will have no choice but to crap their drawers and slink off in shame.

Separates can be wonderful but only if you are made of money.
audioguy85's avatar
audioguy85
2,018 posts
 
I must be very gullible as I own the Niagara 1200 as well as many semi expensive AQ power chords. To me they have made a difference...a radical difference? NO! but a difference none the less in a decrease in the noise floor and or more of a silent backdrop. Again its what I hear & your results and or opinion may differ, to each their own I guess. To me, my investment in equipment justified, in my gullible mind🙄, the further investment in AC accessories. I for one won’t go back to not using the power conditioner and upscale power chords. I think everything matters and can collectively increase the performance of your system to a certain extent if one takes the time to experiment and listen. You can always return or sell something that you find made no difference. That being said, ultimately no two persons will hear the same thing. Only you can know if these things matter, as the results obtained are subjective.
au_lait OP
348 posts
 
@millercarbon Apologies, it was obnoxious to post all those specs, I just had it all noted in 1 file for quick reference and copy/pasted here. I appreciate the advice. I’m a touring DJ, used to large systems in large rooms for large crowds, so I’m coming into this from a different angle perhaps. As for the lean, detailed and hifi – there are some things I can’t really part with, the Cello being one of them (sentimental reasons) and the 1200s (I know they’re a bit beneath most of you but they are my axe, if you will). So, that’s the main reason I’m trying separates, I’m basing the system around the Palette for now, as I won’t be swapping that out. I also digitize a lot of my records for use as a DJ (which is now mostly digital) but to play a lot of older music alongside modern productions, I have to EQ ever so slightly, usually with the low end, another reason the Palette is staying. As for the clinical sounding system, I am constantly evaluating masters and test pressings for a record label, so I would prefer less color and less high frequency roll off. But, my speakers, I know, are not that. Reason I mentioned a dedicated AC line, is that the current outlet in my room shares with kitchen appliances, and the sound literally drops here and there when my wife lights the stove (and she is English which means that’s 200 times per day for tea). This is regardless of any noise issues, it feels simply unsafe. Do you think running a new 20amp line into my music room is overkill?

@austinbob I do love these speakers, smooth, sweet, feels appropriate for much of the music I listen to. I’ve run them at 30w for years but heard another pair at a friends with much higher wattage and it was it made me really jealous. I decided I wanted to replace my amp. They can lack bass depending on what genre I’m listening to, I’ve heard a pair of A/D/S L1530s elsewhere which did pull out some more bottom end. I've yet to hear the L1290s with the Palette.

I’ve not talked about how it sounds yet is I’m awaiting a voltage conversion before I can listen at all, just anxious. I guess I was mostly looking for some confirmation that I hadn’t GROSSLY mismatched anything, hence the numbers.
au_lait OP
348 posts
 
I just looked at Chuck Miller's system photos, and will now keep my mouth shut for some time.
whatsthatbuzz
7 posts
 
I picked up a pair of L1290s this year for my living room system and have been loving them. Extra power improves them greatly. I initially had the run with a Dynaco ST70, but it was far to boomy. Then I bought an ATI 1506...

At first, because why not, I was running 2 of the 3 separate amps in the 1506 bridged, which is 450 watts per channel at 8 ohms. The L1290s are 4 ohm speakers so I’ll guess that was something like 900 watts per channel! The sound was like being at a live concert with a really nice system. The power emanating from the speakers was thrilling. I guess I like that type of distortion, but I kept blowing fuses in the speakers. Go figure.

So I switched off the bridge on the ATI 1506 and ran the L1290s at a mere 325 watts per channel for 4 ohm speakers. The speakers say 250 watts max so I thought I’d still hear some of that thrilling distortion but it was gone. What was heard just clean sound. I can’t complain but it is very different from overdriven. What this did let me do was add a sub. From one DJ to another, let me confirm that you definitely want the sub. I want a second one and now that the 1506 isn’t bridged for the L1290s I have an extra 2 channels to bridge, but then I think I need that dedicated circuit too. 
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