Replacing driver screws with brass screws

"Glupson"
Brass machine screws, "Or any other type",  don't need any info from the manufacturer to give you "any" given specs. The geometry of the part "Screw", does that for you. They are standardized globally at this point. You just need to know the alloy and standard used, "Like S.A.E. for instance", which should be on the packaging even if coded. All with the exception of real oddities are in any machinist handbook. 
Also the studies do call out different alloys of all commonly used materials as applicable. And zinc was one of the metals as well as everything else used today. Standard or forged brass showed no filtering effects. 
Is "Brass" the answer? NO!
Just another piece of the puzzle to play with that we have limited knowledge of and about.
But I keep wondering about the "exact" point at which the "Electrical expression of the waveform coalesces into that waveform. "Which should be instantaneous". And exterior forms of energy affecting the launch. If you can clean the area up as far as stray particles and stabilize the fields a little you could also retard phasing I think. But I think it's beyond the "Classical" physics modeling of field theory and well into....
    I'll be quiet now.......

You know you want to say it...

I don't know who Peter is, and I would not suggest you change your screws, beacause you don't want to.

However I will attest that is it my personal experience that they do change the overall sound (despite differing opinions as to why), and the fact that experience despite different theories seem to all corroborate this should be an indication of something.

@zavato
I went to see your system page, first thank you for sharing it, many do not.
And it looks pretty darned neat, evidently you've put in a lot of time and investment. I am sure you enjoy your music sir.

rixthetrick,

’If someone isn’t going to take the time to research it properly, and purchase appropriate tools and fasteners to correctly implement this technology - I totally agree with CD318 - just don’t.’



Yes, it just isn’t worth it.

As I mentioned earlier, and shown in the link to the excellent Siegfried Linkwitz site there are other ways of attaching the driver to the cabinet other than just screws.

If one was in the experimental mode (and not particularly attached to their speakers) they could try the method used previously by the likes of KEF and the BBC.

In this case the driver is attached to the back of the speaker cabinet by its magnet whilst the front of the driver is hardly making any contact with the baffle.

As you can see in his driver mounting resonances diagram, out of the 3 illustrated methods the least resonances occur with the rear magnet attached method. It’s tricky to implement but it sure looks like an improvement. It’s also interesting that Linkwitz might have looked at this issue as far back as November 1986 (or maybe someone else had going by the date pencilled in the diagram.).

My previous speakers used both wood screws and a soft brace behind the magnet for stability.

Some manufacturers do go to some trouble to avoid driver excited resonances in the baffle.

One popular method is to use a sub-baffle and screw the driver in from behind.

Some might to prefer using grommets.

Certainly worth considering for those brave souls who want to build their own.

https://www.linkwitzlab.com/frontiers_2.htm#N

We have a resonance tuning method that can be performed from the outside back of our cast cabinets. Never tried it on mdf or the like. Couple of degrees and you get a different out come.Tighter  slightly faster and maybe thinner..looser a little warmer and full. Been doing this since 2003. Installed the new Purifi driver just incredible now I need to install the new resonance tuner.  Tom