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Replacing driver screws with brass screws

There was some discussion about this on Millercarbon's thread about the Moab speakers, and I wanted to pursue the subject further without interfering with his thread.
As I stated there, I have heard about this practice for quite a few years, but never tried it because it seemed like one of those lunatic fringe ideas; and even though I actually really enjoy trying tweaks, and have found many of them effective, I just was not prepared for what this one did for the music coming out of my speakers. 
Specifically, it improved the detail in ambient trails, focus in general, complex harmonics in voices and stringed instruments, and instrumental separation. It is not subtle, and it is immediately noticeable.
So, I am curious to know how many of you out there have tried this, and what your experience has been.
Thanks, John  
128x128roxy54
oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 
359/379 Peterbilt, aluminum nose. A true classic. I used to be in charge of 118 359s, and 26, 379s.. That puts a date on me for sure.. All Cummins power. 

Then I went HEAVY duty..

Regards
roxy54's avatar
roxy54 OP
8,034 posts
 
That was some non sequitur oldhvymec.
rixthetrick's avatar
rixthetrick
1,060 posts
 
@cd318 - whatever does the job the best, thanks for posting.
glupson
7,842 posts
 
"The only Peter I can think of is Belt."

My first thought was...Pan.
rixthetrick's avatar
rixthetrick
1,060 posts
 
@cd318
My previous speakers used both wood screws and a soft brace behind the magnet for stability.
That’s got nothing to do with glupson’s screws made of wood idea, right?

And yeah the idea of having a flexible gasket and mounting the driver from the back isn’t used (at least not commonly so), and it seems like a pretty good idea to me.

This article also could be construed to validate that (which I was told by my employer, a loudspeaker designer for at least three decades) he uses copper screws to damp the vibrational interactions with the speaker basket and the baffle. This has been my understanding as to why the different material can act like a spring (here we go again) by absorbing the kenetic energy of the driver. It was explained to me, that he chose copper because it is softer, but more importantly that copper can convert kenetic energy into heat, being another property of copper.

Regardless, the article you posted cd318 shows grounds for decoupling the driver basket from the baffle - however is this commonly used today?
Or used at all?

It seems the second method (B) was used by my former employer, with positive results, however the rubber grommet was replaced with a copper ring set into the baffle and copper screws to retain the driver. Obviously not a cost effective upgrade.

cd318 - thanks for sharing that link





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