What do you think of this power cord?


Maze Audio is a family-owned company that states it hand-makes its cables in the US.  There is a range of prices for power cables, but I was looking at this entry cable.  I don’t see any mention of the metal used in the cables, but I don’t know if that is as crucial for power cables as for interconnects.  I am interested in your opinions.  Thanks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Maze-Audio-Eden-Series-Black-Orange-AC-Audio-Power-Cord-Cable-10-Ga-Audioph...
bob540
cakyol
How much power does your amp require ? Add up the wattage of all channels (in case you have a multichannel amp) of your amp, multiply that by 2.5 to account for losses and very dynamic music passages and the peak power requirement, and that is how much power you need to draw from your mains outlet. Divide that by your mains rms voltage (typically 120 in the US) and that is roughly your current requirement.
That's a pretty silly exercise. To determine the power an amplifier requires, just look at its back panel or spec sheet, where its current draw will be listed. The correlation between actual current draw and audio output in watts is dependent on the amplifier's class of operation.
cleeds,

That is why the factor of 2.5 was mentioned.... to account for differences in the class of the amplifier and more as described below:

The back panel measurement is done with a 1khz STEADY sine wave signal. The REALITY is that with music, especially if you happen to be listening with max power on, the dynamic passages may require a lot more power.

In addition, the speaker load impedance is not constant. With different frequencies, it may sometimes drop down to as low as 1 or 2 ohms, in which case a LOT more power is drawn than mentioned on the back panel.

The safety factor of 2.5 takes into account all those situations.  I just did not want to go into all the detail but it seems like some people need the explanations.


cakyol

That is why the factor of 2.5 was mentioned.... to account for differences in the class of the amplifier ...
Huh?
The back panel measurement is done with a 1khz STEADY sine wave signal ...
Nonsense. The current rating of any appliance is the current rating. I don’t care if you’re talking about a refrigerator, furnace, or audio amplifier. An audio amplifier is typically spec’d to include current draw at idle and maximum power.

You cannot accurately determine an amplifier’s current requirement by using calculations involving solely its audio output in watts and your rules-of-thumb. And why bother? The info you need is almost always on the back panel, the user manual and the spec sheet.