2. cables
  3. 156742-1458

Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling

I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig
aniwolfe
760 posts
 
@whacky 

To free up some friction, try spreading the coil at one end...that worked for me.
whacky's avatar
whacky
53 posts
 
Yeah I think I’m just gonna take some 600 grit and run it up and down the shaft...yup. 
It wasn’t that big of a problem, but considering I used solid 12 gauge thhn for the ground, and wound it nice and tight, it was a a tad difficult to slide off. Easily fixed. But I may grab a fiberglass one regardless. the wood one I have is poplar. It’s soft and seemed like it wanted to snap.

For the first trial, it went really well. 


corelli
999 posts
 
Going to give this a go.  Looking at the KLE plugs, that little spade connector tab looks like the absolute worst design I have seen.  How do you get a secure mechanical connection with that!  You are relying on a bridge of solder as a connector.  Ughhhh.
I will use the Furutech 111g, Progold the VH copper, and secure directly with a set screw.  Will keep you posted.
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,504 posts
 
That tab is a great connector and design having made at least 150 sets of ICs with those plugs. The Furutech will look better and feel higher quality, however they will not sound as good. I have done the listening tests. Contact me and I will give you some tips. A joy to work with!

These plugs do not editorialize the sound.
williewonka
3,075 posts
 
For some, those tabs look very fragile, but they actually allow for a much better joint than trying to solder a wire to a hefty neutral barrel like those on the Furutech RCA’s and they are so much easier connect a wire to than trying to get a wire down the center of the signal pin if re-attaching a previously used RCA

But they do allow you to apply the heat under the tab while holding the wire on top of the tab for a perfect solder joint. You can see the solder melt right into the wire & tab

You do need to secure that little plug though - I insert mine into a old RCA socket that is held in a vice - that leaves both hands free

But that’s just my opinion after having reused my Harmony RCA’s many times.

As for sound quality - I’m with @grannyring - they are the best sounding RCA plug I have ever used.

Regards - Steve


More to discover