Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling


I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig
Me again :-)

I’ve just tried a couple of things
  1. a 14 gauge Silver Plated Mil-spec wire as the neutral on an interconnect and the results were very similar to the double 16 gauge. But I had to use a 1/8" rod, which provided only just enough space to get the 2 x 18 gauge VH audio wires to pass through the coil
  2. I tried the Classic Harmony RCA on my best cable. While this is the entry level RCA plug from KLE Innovations, its performance was quite surprising, i.e. compared to the Absolute Harmony that it replaced.
Based on how the performance of the Classic Harmony compared to the Absolute harmony, I believe it is probably as good, if not slightly better than the Silver Harmony.

It left me very confused ..
- why would KLE Innovations introduce a product that performs this good, since it appears to compete with the Copper and Silver Harmony RCA’s

Compared to the Absolute Harmony it lacked just a little in the following areas...
  1. Dynamics - not quite as crisp
  2. Image size was a tad smaller and lacked a little precision i.e. not as focused
  3. Clarity & details were a little less accurate

It might be a good, affordable solution for Digital SPDIF cables ? Unfortunately, all of my streaming is accomplished view Ethernet, so I cannot verify that

It is definitely targeted to a more budget conscious buyer - BUT, it definitely will not disappoint. It’s a very good RCA plug.

Regards - Steve
Jeff at Sonic Craft told me this a year ago.  He only stocks the Classic and Absolute stating the others are a waste of time to carry. I trust his ears as he knows what he is talking about. 
" ... The DIYer also raised concerns about using cotton sleeve, since he is in Europe where the voltage is 230v. ,,,"

Steve - I lifted this from one of your previous posts.

I realize there is a sort of cage around it, but I was wondering about the safety of the cotton with 120V.  
Post removed 
@maxima95 - until recently, I too was concerned about this aspect.

Here is my thought process
We hear a lot from cable manufacturers about the safety aspect of cables, but home audio cables are "normally" fairly stationary.

But if you are selling a cable you cannot be certain of the use it will be put too, so you design in LOTS of additional "protection"
e.g. Furutech cable is perhaps one of the safest cables around - it can withstand many harsh chemicals - just the thing you need for home audio :-)

DH Labs realized this when they designed a line of bulk cable for home audio use - it used great copper like Furutech, but it was not shielded and the outer sleeve was not chemical resistant

There are people out there that has a maze of cables around their system and are not too careful in how they handle them. The result is cable can get worn and break

WRT MY helix cables
- I only touch/remove any of my cables a few times a year
- they are not stepped on or abused
- I always hold the plug when removing them - not the cable
- they do not have liquids poured on them
- they are not subject to extreme temperatures

So I have become more comfortable with using Cotton, especially on the live wire, because it is inside a "cage".
- The wires around it are protected with Teflon.
- The live wire cannot be touched by people under "normal" operation.
- The only "threat" with cotton is if someone were to spill water on them and I am careful not to have water around my entire system.

Is there a possibility that the wire will heat up and set fire to the cotton insulation ?
- well that should not happen under normal operating conditions because the solid core wire I use is capable of handling up to 34 amps
- that’s 19 amps over the "standard" 15 amp breaker trip current.
- So the breaker should trip long before the wire gets hot enough to ignite the cotton.

So fast forward to my later post which mentions using Teflon tube - the main reason for this was to provide an alternative to cotton for people that might be concerned about using cotton.

WRT the difference between the Dielectric Constant values of the two sleeves
- I believe the difference in sound quality between the two would be distinguishable if you listened intently.
- So either is a good choice

I leave it up to the individual to use whichever insulation method suits their own needs in order to achieve the performance they feel is safe.

@wig has reported excellent results using the 12 gauge solid core without removing the Teflon insulation, so that is a third very safe option.

So to answer your question
- It is probably more prudent to adopt the insulation that you are comfortable with
- perhaps leave the Teflon Insulation in place
- it will not keep you awake at night
- the sound quality will still be excellent

The choice is yours...
- Cotton
- Teflon tube
- or - Leave the Teflon insulation in place

We all have limits to the things we are willing to try in this crazy hobby

BTW - I do understand you concerns - I check my cables frequently during the burn-in process for changes in temperature.. They have always remained at room temperature.

I hope that helps

Regards - Steve