Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling


I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig
Steve, my mistake as I noticed you already mentioned the Neotech PVC option. Sorry! 
@grannyring - thanks for the thoughts - as always very useful.

Initially my thought was to try 2 x 18 gauge because it would be a direct comparison of the two brands of wires

BUT - After giving this more thought, I think I am going to try a 2 x 16 gauge Neotech AND, as a separate test -  a single strand of 14 Gauge Neotech - both bare wire inside the PVC tube that I used in the power cable.

I’m thinking both these approaches will probably perform better than 2 x 18 gauge Vh Audio wires

Will get back to you once I get the wire(s)

Cheers

@rx8man - thanks for the update on your power cables

So I was wondering if you had tried replacing the Helic PC with one of the Mad Scientist cables to connect the power conditioner to the wall outlet and use the Helix PC for either a source or your amp.

If you have tried this what were your observations -preferences?

I ask because based on the various things I have tried, having the Helix Power cables connected to a component (vs. the power conditioner) has generally provided better sound.

But there are many things at play in a system, so this may not be the case in your system

Regards - Steve


Steve, the Inakustik has a 20amp IEC, this limits swapping, unless I get an adapter.
@rx8man - I didn't realize that - that just makes it "messy" - no [problem :-)

Enjoy - Steve
Power Cable UPDATE: So today’s venture replaced the Cotton Sleeve on the power cable to my amp with the PVC tube mentioned above.

The cable had been completely burned in
- I removed one of the Spade connectors
- inserted the wire into the tube
- placed heat shrink with adhesive at both ends to "seal" the tube
- reattached spade connector and the mains connectors

The improvements, although quite small, were immediately discernible.
- more detailed venue acoustics
- improved clarity, textures and harmonics
- more precise image focus and artist placement

Orchestral tracks sound more spacious and focused and Pipe Organ music (in a church venue) exhibited an improved "perception of height".

I believe there is a downside to being able to reproduce music to this level of detail...
- The "engineered" venue acoustics on (some) tracks that were recorded in the studio have a tendency to now sound a bit "fake" - there is just too much echo/reverberations to be believable

However, the tracks recorded at the venue sound amazingly lifelike. e.g. there is more separation between the the various sections of the Orchestra in width and depth.

Considering the price of this upgrade - About $1.30 - I would say it was worth it. :-)

It would seem the key is to reduce the amount of surface area of the wire that touches the insulation. The Dielectric Constant (Dk) of cotton is around 1.3 and Air is around 1.1

I think the PVC tube is now my insulation of choice when using bare wire for the conductor. Teflon would probably have the same effect, but is considerably more expensive in comparison

I think I have probably squeezed the last ounce of performance out of my copper power cables - I have no plans to try the same thing with the Neutral wire, it would be far to complicated a venture.

Speaker cables are up next for the exact same treatment..
- I’ve decided to try a single 14 gauge bare Neotech UP-OCC wire
- inside the same PVC tube

Will keep you all posted in a couple of weeks

Regards Steve